Along the island’s western coastline lies a road rich in unique cultural and natural heritage. Route 40, with its 130 km of paved road, connects Ajaccio to Bonifacio, winding through untamed valleys, crossing rivers and streams, and offering the chance to discover some of the island’s wonders. Join me on this colorful road trip—which can also be done by bike, for the more adventurous.
Departure from Ajaccio, the Imperial City
The Gulf of Ajaccio lies between the Gulf of Valinco and the Gulf of Sagone. Fifteen kilometers wide, it is bounded by two headlands: Capo di Muro to the south and Pointe de la Parata to the north, which extends into the Sanguinaires Archipelago.
Designated a “Grand Site de France” since 2017, the archipelago consists of a group of four dark-colored, rocky islets of magmatic origin. A haven of peace for biodiversity, the flora boasts 150 rare and endemic species, some of which are not found anywhere else on the island of Corsica. Amid this lush vegetation, colonies of seabirds nest and soar peacefully above the sea.
Famous for Napoleon Bonaparte, the Imperial City is also worth a visit for its lively narrow streets, its well-stocked market, and its beaches with turquoise waters, such as Capo di Feno.
A Journey Through the Sartenais, a Region with a Thousand-Year History
Located in the Rocca region, Sartène is the island’s largest municipality, covering an areaof 200km ². “The most Corsican of Corsican towns, “ as Proposer Mérimée liked to call it, was founded in 1550 by the Genoese on the rocky outcrop of Pitraghju.
Occupying a position that was both strategic and defensive, the first village was built on this site because of the natural ramparts present there. The Genoese, seeking to reinforce the area’s fortifications, supplemented the rugged terrain by constructing imposing walls. A remnant of the defensive bastion, the watchtower is a historic monument still standing today. It was built in the late 16th century and can be seen from the D65, not far from the elementary school.
Perched 300 meters above the valley, the town consists of a maze of picturesque little streets that are perfect for strolling through. Built in the traditional architectural style, its tall granite houses are steeped in a long history marked by pirate invasions and violent clashes between rival clans.
Perched on the hills above the regional capital, the Museum of Corsican Prehistory and Archaeology in Sartène showcases the most representative collections of the island’s archaeological heritage, spanning from the earliest known settlements nearly 10,000 years ago to the end of the Genoese period in the 15th century CE. A welcome stop to immerse yourself in the origins of Corsica.
If you’re an archaeology enthusiast, you can set out to explore the legendary Torranian civilization and the remains of Corsican megalithic culture. Filitosa is, of course, one of the region’s major prehistoric sites.
Every Saturday in Porta Square, the market and its dozen or so vendors bring the heart of the town to life. Artisans and producers from the microregion offer their specialties to both discerning locals and summer visitors in search of authentic flavors. On the terraces of the bars, the residents of Sarten sit around a table enjoying coffee and exchanging pleasantries while reading the local newspaper with its white lettering on a red background.
Sartène is also a recognized AOC that brings together about ten winemakers and produces some truly excellent wines in all three colors.
In its western part, along the rugged coastline, Sartène is home to the port of Tizzano, which nestles on one of the slopes of the Cala di l’Avena. Sleeping through the 1990s, this small port welcomed only locals drawn by its fish-rich waters and lobster holes. Today, buildings have sprung up on both sides of the main street, and vacationers enjoy its lively beach during the summer months.
A vacation destination, Tizzano and its marina are an ideal starting point for hiking to the Senetosa lighthouse or exploring the rugged coastline and its array of beautiful beaches, such as Tralicetu, Erbaju, and Roccapina. With its iconic lion and white-sand beach, Roccapina is well worth a visit to discover its history and attractions, such as its Genoese tower.
In the Footsteps of the “Orii” of the Far South
A major center of pastoralism, the island’s first shepherds were itinerant nomads who moved with their flocks. Along the transhumance routes, over the centuries they built sheepfolds and rock shelters, known as “orii” in Corsican.
Built according to a standard design, these shelters are situated beneath an imposing rock whose appearance has been shaped by the forces of erosion, or taffonization (from the Corsican word “taffone,” meaning “hole”). Elements such as rain, snow, and sea spray hollow out the rock, giving rise to astonishing structures consisting of a cavity sealed off by a stone wall.
These shelters were intended for people and animals seeking welcome refuge during inclement weather. In the far south of Corsica—a micro-region rich in natural treasures—these small cave dwellings are scattered throughout the area and emerge right in the middle of the maquis.
In the town of Sotta, after just a few minutes’ walk, you can discover a striking rock formation topped by a remarkable pointed cap: the Oriu di i Canni. Symbolizing the harshness of the shepherds’ lives in days gone by, this oriu has a single room with a vaulted ceiling high enough for a person to stand upright.
From the outside, you can see that the enormous block of stone has been smoothed by time, with its curves now softer and less jarring. As you walk around the monolith, the site offers a superb, unobstructed view of the hamlet of Canni and the valley below.
A little further west, nestled on the mountainside, is another of these architectural oddities: the Oriu de Monacia-d’Aullène. After about an hour on the beautifully restored heritage trail, the caves—protected by their wall—come into view. This idyllic spot, with its large flat rocks, is perfect for picnicking and enjoying the panoramic view of the Mediterranean Sea.
The Unusual Hermitage of the Trinity
Probably inhabited before the Christian era, this site—steeped in spirituality and absolute tranquility—features a hermitage, an oratory, and a cluster of granite boulders known as the “Cave of the Virgin.” Nestled in the midst of this quintessentially Mediterranean landscape—composed of oak and olive trees and a fragrant maquis where all the plant species of this biome thrive—stands the Hermitage of the Trinity.
Just 5 kilometers from the “City of Cliffs,” this unique spot, perched 200 meters above sea level, overlooks the Strait of Bonifacio and leaves curious visitors in awe of the breathtaking view.
In the very early days of Corsica’s Christianization, it appears that the site was inhabited by hermits before a Carolingian church was built there later, in the 9th century. The Benedictines then settled there, followed by the Franciscans, who gradually expanded the church over the centuries.
In 1912, a gable wall was added, and the two side pilasters of the newly renovated facade were extended to frame its upper section.
A people of seafarers, as evidenced by the maritime cemetery in Bonifacio, the people of Bonifacio were exposed to the fury of the sea. Grateful for having miraculously escaped danger and for having their lives spared, sailors or their families would place an object in a holy place as a token of thanks for a grace received. These objects, known as ex-votos, are numerous in the heart of the Hermitage of the Trinity and take the form of a painting, an engraved marble plaque, or even a model.
Adjacent to the Ermitage, the Notre-Dame de Tibhirine Oratory is dedicated to the memory of the seven monks from the Notre-Dame de l’Atlas Abbey who were kidnapped and then murdered during the Algerian Civil War in 1996. Consecrated in 2006, it serves as a memorial to the seven martyrs who were beatified in December 2018 in Oran.
After taking a moment to reflect, you can either climb to the summit of Mont de la Trinité or head to Paragan Beach, where the crystal-clear water invites you to take a dip.
Arriving in the City of Cliffs
On the southern tip of the “Island of Beauty” lies a breathtaking landscape of towering limestone cliffs. This unspoiled gem, sculpted by the force of the waves and winds, is nestled within the Bouches de Bonifacio Nature Reserve.
Renowned for its rich environment and cultural heritage, the reserve spans 80,000 hectares between Corsica and Sardinia, making it the largest nature reserve in metropolitan France. With 37% of the Mediterranean’s notable species recorded within its geographical area, it serves as a vital refuge for flora and fauna. While strolling along the cliffs, it’s common to see seagulls gliding over the turquoise water as a myriad of boats bustle about in a ceaseless dance.
They take summer visitors to the foot of these gleaming limestone giants, as well as to the area’s many points of interest, such as sea caves, beaches, and the “Rudder of Corsica.”
As the southernmost point, Capo Pertusato—with its fairytale-like “pirate beach”—is a place full of magic. From the lighthouse perched on the hillside, which guides sailors through the strait, the view of the strait’s mouth and Sardinia is breathtaking. Nestled right in the heart of this unique site is a peninsula at the edge of the world that invites you to daydream.
Known since ancient times for its sheltered and sufficiently deep harbor, Bonifacio has continually evolved, transforming from a small fishing port in the 12th century into an impregnable fortress in the 17th century. A strategic stronghold at the crossroads of trade routes, the Republic of Genoa—which governed the city for many centuries—fortified it in response to attacks, turning it into a stronghold.
The citadel’s current appearance, with its bastions and monumental ramparts, dates back to 1668.
Drop anchor (or almost) near the Lavezzi Islands and Cavallo
Between Corsica and Sardinia lie two small, sun-baked islets. Located just two kilometers off the coast, the islands of Cavallo and Lavezzi rise from the depths. Surrounded by azure waters, they resemble Pacific atolls.
This dream destination, combining luxury with unspoiled beauty, is part of a group of eight islets commonly known as the “Lavezzi Archipelago.” It is the remnant of a land bridge that connected Corsica and Sardinia approximately 20,000 years ago, making them a single island at that time.
As documented by numerous historians, it appears that this narrow passage, which no longer exists, was of great importance for travel between Corsica and Sardinia, as evidenced by the presence of rock shelters.
And your trip won’t take you any farther than that. Unless, of course, you’re thinking of crossing over to Sardinia…
