On one side, a sea of maquis with the scent of myrtle and ridges bristling with rocky outcrops. On the other, an azure sea and white-sand beaches. At the edge of the Sartenais-Valinco-Taravo region, nestled in the rocky bedrock, lies a breathtaking site: Roccapina, and the dreamlike beach of the same name.
Renowned throughout Corsica and beyond, Roccapina is, first and foremost from a geographical standpoint, a cape that marks the boundary between the Sartenais region and the far south of the island. From its promontory rising nearly 150 meters above the sea, the lion has always watched over the Mediterranean.
A legendary stone lion, shaped by the elements
Carved by the elements out of pink granite, this rock formation—known as a “taffoni” (meaning “hole” in Corsican)—was formed by sea spray and rain. As it flows down, the salt water seeps into the crevices of the rock, where it eventually crystallizes due to heat, causing the granite to crack.
Little by little, the excavation of the rock gives rise to amazing structures consisting of one or more cavities.
Known as “orii,” these shelters were intended for people and animals seeking refuge from inclement weather. Sometimes enclosed by a wall, these rock-cut chambers were also used to store fodder for herds.
Scattered throughout the area, these modest cave dwellings stand alongside more imposing structures, such as the Genoese tower of Roccapina.
The Lion of Roccapina, for its part, remains the central figure of a local legend, as do many other sites from Corsica’s past (such as the “Bride’s Veil” waterfall in Bocognano or the dolmen nicknamed the “casa di l’orcu”). It is in *Corse-Matin* that we delve into this folk tale:
Legend has it that in the time of the Saracens, a lord of great courage lived there, between Tizzano and Figari Bay. He was nicknamed the Lion of Roccapina. He was a handsome man with long, tousled hair. One day, while out hunting, the lord encountered a young woman. Enamored with her but unable to marry her, the man, in despair, called for death, and he was turned to stone in the form of a lion. Hence the iconic quote from this legend: “Your heart is made of stone; a stone lion you shall be!”Corse-Matin
The Roccapina Tower: A Breathtaking View
It stands atop its rock, just like its “sisters” who have watched over the island’s coastline for centuries.
Built in the early 17th century based on plans drawn up in 1573, the Genoese tower of Roccapina is approximately 11 meters high. It is cylindrical in shape, with sturdy walls and embrasures for cannons. Inside, there were several floors used as living quarters for the “torregiani” and as storage for weapons and provisions.
With the “fall” of the Republic of Genoa in Corsica and the end of Barbary pirate raids along the coast, local authorities gradually abandoned it. Since that time, the area surrounding this ruined tower has served as a superb vantage point overlooking the surrounding countryside.
- To the southeast, the view stretches out to the jagged peaks of Mucchiu Biancu and Caniscione, as well as to Sardinia when the haze isn’t too thick.
- Looking toward the northwest, your gaze is drawn to the breathtaking Erbaju Beach, which can be reached via a lovely marked trail.
- And finally, looking toward the northeast, all eyes are drawn to the Bavella Peaks.
From this perspective, we can also clearly see that the “mane” of the Roccapina Lion is occupied by a structure, which is most likely a remnant of a medieval fortified enclosure.
Visit the mini-museum at Casa di Roccapina (and beyond)
For those who would like to learn more about the site, the Casa di Roccapina is a former roadmender’s house that has been converted into a museum. Open to the public, it offers audio guides that take visitors on a journey through the history of human settlement from the Mesolithic period to the present day.
For hiking enthusiasts, the trail connecting Erbaju Beach to Roccapina Beach—which passes near the stone lion—is a must-see. The trail isn’t always well marked and will take you about 2 hours, with elevation changes and difficulty varying depending on the route you choose: the Genoese tower is easily accessible (though entry is prohibited), unlike the lion.
If you’re interested in this somewhat challenging hike, check out the Corse Rando website, where the author provides a very clear description of the route and its points of interest.
How do you get to Roccapina?
It all depends on whether you’re coming from Ajaccio or Bonifacio. From the Cité Impériale, the drive will take 2 hours, passing through Bastelicaccia, Grosseto-Prugna, the villages of Taravu, then Propriano and Sartène, before beginning the “descent” (which is difficult in a standard car) to Roccapina.
The trip will be much shorter if you head up from Bonifacio or Figari: you’ll be at the beach in 50 minutes, after keeping the Mediterranean horizon in sight on your left for much of the journey.
Once you’ve seen Roccapina, you’ll find it hard to forget that image.
