Friday morning. I let the sun’s rays gently stream into the room. The cries of the seagulls and the sound of the wind set the pace for this moment. I booked an Airbnb for the night. I wanted to soak up the unique atmosphere of Bonifacio, this town perched high above an azure blue sea, with its Ligurian scents.
At this time of year— April—the city on the cliffs is pretty quiet. So I decide to go have my coffee outside, since I haven’t yet figured out what I’m going to do today. I wander through the narrow streets of the city, in a morning mood. The stroll is pleasant; I feel a bit like I’m in an old Italian movie.
The sun gently warms the air; residents chat with one another from window to window; shopkeepers slowly open their doors; everything comes to life. Quietly. The old cliché of laundry hanging out to dry, adding color to the alleyways, suddenly takes on meaning. “One cannot say what goes on inside you when faced with such sights, ” said Flaubert.
I look out over the city’s hills and scan the horizon: I can see Sardinia, the Lavezzi Islands, the Maddalena Archipelago… And above all, the Semaphore. I decide that this will be my quest for the day. I walk along the cobblestones down to the edge of the Saint Roch Chapel. But before I take you along the trails of Bonifacio, let me first introduce you to this iconic town, whose history is as unique as its appearance…
The Millennia-Old Origins of Bonifacio
The town’s history dates back to ancient times. The discovery in 1972 of the skeleton of the woman known as the “Lady of Bonifacio” provides evidence of human presence in Corsica for approximately 9,000 years.
What is the story behind this woman? We know that she died around the age of 35, and that her clan provided her with support due to her obvious physical disability. The oldest known woman from Corsica—and certainly one of the oldest humans ever found in the Mediterranean—was hiding in the Araguina Cave, on the outskirts of Bonifacio. Everything else is open to interpretation…
Over the centuries, various peoples have inhabited the Bonifacio region, leaving behind a fascinating legacy. The Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Phocaeans, and Romans have all left their mark on the region through their ruins. The presence of the Romans is notably evidenced by the ruins of the Roman villa at Piantarella. Some people also mention the “Campu Rumanilu” trail, mistakenly believing it to mean “Roman camp.” This is, in fact, one of the trails I suggest you take, later in my report.
Bonifacio, the (almost) impregnable Ligurian city
The first stones of Bonifacio were “laid” in 833 by the man who would give the city its name: Boniface, Count of Tuscany. His interest in the promontory at that time stemmed from his mission to protect the island, which was under attack by the Moors. Over the years, communities of sailors and soldiers settled around the original “casteddu.”
In the Middle Ages, Bonifacio established itself as a virtually impregnable stronghold, easy to defend from both land and sea. Nicknamed the “Corsican Gibraltar,” the city became the scene of the great Ligurian conflict between the cities of Pisa and Genoa, which fought over the territory for many decades. Pisa was the first to take control of the city, thanks to the Pope’s support. Genoa did not cease its attacks until the definitive capture of Bonifacio in 1196.
Once settled in Bonifacio, the Genoese expanded the town and its fortifications, built the Church of Sainte-Marie-Majeure, and laid out a few small streets. Thus, a true Genoese colony took root… But what a terrible fate it would face! Repeated sieges, the ravages of the Black Death in 1528, the attack by the Turkish commander Dragut, and the French occupation…
And that is precisely what gives the city its character. Even from a distance, you’ll be blown away by the sight of this impregnable fortress. It almost looks like the bow of a ship.
To admire the fortifications and play at being sentinels of days gone by, you’ll need to take the parapet walk. You’ll also have fun walking down the famous Escalier du Roy d’Aragon… But climbing back up will be a different story. It actually leads all the way down to the sea—a 65-meter descent with 187 steps!
Legend has it that the soldiers of the King of Aragon dug these steps in a single night, in the year 1420. The truth is quite different: it was the residents themselves who set to work to secure a supply of fresh water.
Bonifacio: A (Too) Touristy Town?
Whether they’re history buffs or not, tens of thousands of people flock to Bonifacio every year. That’s because Bonifacio is now the Corsican city most frequented by tourists—a sad downside to its millennia-old beauty.
People visit to stroll through its shaded alleyways, admire its majestic fortifications, explore its restaurants and local shops, and, of course, enjoy the breathtaking view of the Strait of Bonifacio, with the coastline of its sister island visible on the horizon on clear days. A boat trip is recommended if you have the time.
At the heart of this wonder: the old town and its houses. They tower 60 meters high on the cliffside. You’d better not be afraid of heights if you’re going to open your windows… And unfortunately, we can no longer be certain that this suspended city will remain intact, since the rock threatens to partially collapse.
The cliff and the citadel are in danger of collapsing; the ground could give way within the next 100 years. Two buildings have already been closed to the public, and about 20 buildings are at risk.
So keep in mind the pressure and dangers already facing Bonifacio when planning your visit. And if you have the chance to explore it away from the summer crowds, here’s what to make sure to include on your Bonifacio itinerary:
- Genoa Gate
- Citadel and Upper Town
- Street of the Two Emperors
- Loggia of Saint Mary Major
- Manichella Square
- War Memorial
- Bastion of the Standard
- King of Aragon Staircase
- Grain de Sable (Diu Grossu)
- Marine Cemetery
- Gouvernail Tunnel
On the coast near Bonifacio, there is also the “grain de sable,” an isolated rocky outcrop facing the cliffs, reminiscent of Sardinia’s “faraglioni.” This limestone formation broke away from the nearby cliff due to erosion. You can admire it from afar, from the citadel’s lookout point near the Chapel of St. Roch… but also up close. In fact, the “grain of sand” is a staple of classic boat tours.
Despite its air of tranquility during the summer season, the Strait of Bonifacio is among the coastlines most exposed to the fury of the Mediterranean Sea. The storms are formidable; the wind and waves rage, capsizing small boats as well as larger ships. In 1855, one such storm caused the sinking of La Sémillante and its 700 crew members off the coast of the Lavezzi Islands. Only 560 of them were recovered and are buried in the island’s two cemeteries.
Erosion is one of the natural consequences of the forces of nature. It has beautifully sculpted the coastline of the far south of Corsica, but here in Bonifacio, it threatens the buildings along the coast, as I mentioned earlier. In the (long) term, it is likely that our magnificent city will be buried beneath the waves.
Now, how about we set out to explore the trails around Bonifacio, venturing a bit outside the town? You can also check out our article on hiking trails in the Bonifacio area.
From the Fortified City to the Pertusatu Semaphore
From the Saint-Roch Chapel, a trail branches off and follows the cliffs. It’s the “Campu Rumanilu” trail—which translates to “rosemary field.” Along the way, 80 meters above the sea, I’m captivated by the limestone landscape unfolding before me—the low-lying vegetation whipped by the wind and the sea spray evaporating into the air.
I’m sailing between the blue and the white. The ever-present wind whips my face in gusts and sometimes nearly knocks me off balance. It’s commonly said here that the wind has driven the people of Bonifacio mad—but is it really the wind?
I’m walking along what was once called the Piale. A limestone plain, cultivated by the “pialinchi,” farmers from Bonifacio who traveled by donkey and who, for years, were iconic figures on many postcards of Bonifacio.
The low walls, baracun, and other dry-stone structures bear witness to a long history of farming and herding. It is certainly true that Bonifacio is better known for its views of the sea than for its agriculture. So we must imagine olive groves and grain fields on either side of the trail.
After a few more steps, I arrive at the town’s old slaughterhouse. The only building along this trail, it bears witness to Bonifacio’s history and the passage of time. For decades, the residents of Bonifacio witnessed the slaughter of animals daily in the midst of its narrow streets. As the years went by, solutions were found, notably by using the premises of a business to carry out these operations.
In the 1880s, in response to growing concerns about hygiene and changing social norms, a slaughterhouse was commissioned. It took a long time to build and was not finally completed until 1910. The history of this seemingly ordinary place is far richer than one might imagine. Even if it’s not exactly “proper” to say so, this slaughterhouse also served as a brothel during the war years!
A detour to 3 Pointes Beach
Just below the road leading to Pertusatu, it’s easy to spot a small path that winds down toward the sea. A sign reads “Bocca di Bunifaziu.” I take this little path. Here, the light grows dimmer. I find myself as if enclosed between the white limestone cliffs, horizontally striated by the winds.
A ruined house stands frozen in time here, in the middle of these cliffs. The path leads down to the sea. I follow it and take a moment to take in this soothing landscape. Sardinia lies before me. The wind has died down a bit, and I’m enjoying the gentle winter sun. Three large limestone plateaus form the “3 Points” here. Wild, unique beaches—far from fine sand, but truly worth the detour for their scenery.
My goal is still to go see the semaphore that caught my eye a little while ago. So I head back up and continue on my way, crossing the former military base and making my way to the Pertusatu semaphore.
Pertusatu and Saint-Antoine Beach
The Pertusatu semaphore station is, to put it simply, imposing. A large white building resembling an air traffic control tower, it is in fact a military structure from which the occupants still monitor navigation in the Strait of Bonifacio day and night.
The road continues, and the Pertusatu Lighthouse comes into view in the distance. The lighthouse stands atop a rock with a hole in it—hence the name “Pertusatu,” meaning “pierced” in the Bonifacian dialect. Inaugurated in 1844, it was one of the first five lighthouses built in Corsica as part of the general program to illuminate the French coastline.
Out of curiosity, I take this road and a small path cutting through the vegetation. A few minutes later, I find myself in a setting I hadn’t the slightest idea existed.
My steps lead me to Sant’Antuninu Beach. A lunar landscape, a timeless place, with a breathtaking view of the Lavezzi Islands and Sardinia. There aren’t really any words to describe my surprise at that moment. Every detail of the place catches my eye. It’s strikingly beautiful.
I wander down little paths here and there, stopping here and there: in short, I want to see everything!
Fine sand, caves, and turquoise waters: it’s truly magical. I settle down near what’s called “l’Orca,” an open-air cave whose name, I imagine, refers to the different colors of the limestone. I decide to have a picnic here. Bonifacio is only 6 km away, but it feels like I’m traveling much farther.
After this short break, I decide to head back to the port of Bonifacio. In the summer, in the afternoon, I would have chosen to stay here for hours on end, snorkeling. I walked for nearly 4 hours to make the round trip, taking my time to enjoy the breaks and the scenery.
The Strada-Vecia Trail, Fenu, and the Hermitage of the Trinity
From the harbor, I head back toward Porto-Vecchio. On my left, across from the gas station, the Strada-Vecia trail begins. Part of the old Genoese road is paved. It’s a pleasant trail that takes you past the Madonetta and magnificent beaches such as Fazio and Paragan, among other sights.
My gaze, however, is drawn to a cross perched a few meters above. So I continue along this trail, then join the Fenu Trail. The trails are well-marked, running along the coast and offering breathtaking views. It would take more than a day to fully enjoy these magnificent beaches!
With some difficulty, I resist the urge to lounge in the sun and take the first little path that winds its way toward Mont de la Trinité. The cross is still in sight. A fairly easy climb leads me to a plateau where, to my right, I can enjoy a view of Bonifacio from the south. To my left, I spot the Ermitage de la Trinité and, a little higher up, that famous cross. It served as my guide that afternoon, and I’m not disappointed with my choice.
Perched 240 meters above sea level, this former monastery was a place of pilgrimage during World War II. It is said that women from Sartène and Aullène came here to pray for their men on the front lines. The former monastery, the Oratory of Our Lady of Tibhirine, and the Trinity Grotto come together here to form a serene and spiritual setting. Three pilgrimages are still held here each year:
- Holy Trinity in June
- Christmas in September
- Our Lady of Fatima for the Portuguese community
I take in the end-of-day spectacle, the fading light, and the golden hues of the sky. Then it’s back to where I started, near the harbor. Why check the time at moments like this? The afternoon round trip still took nearly 4 hours, after all. A long day of walking…
My little impromptu weekend in Bonifacio definitely made me want to come back—in other seasons—to enjoy the underwater caves and the bustling atmosphere of the harbor and the town in the spring. It’s also proof that sometimes you have to explore the area around a place to truly understand and appreciate all it has to offer.
A Few Tips Before Your Visit to Bonifacio
There are so many things to see and do in Bonifacio. As you can imagine, one day isn’t enough to discover all its treasures.
But be warned, if you’re planning to visit the “City of Cliffs” during peak season. Finding a parking spot in Bonifacio in the summer is no easy feat… So if you don’t want to rush through your visit, come early in the morning when the (paid) parking lots aren’t crowded yet.
Better yet: stay outside the city, either before or after the summer rush. Both the locals and your loved ones will appreciate your stay here all the more. Beauty like this isn’t something to be “consumed”—it’s something to be approached with respect and admiration.
