In Corsica, as elsewhere, there are hikes that stand out from the rest—less well-known trails that are nonetheless one-of-a-kind. Imagine a trail that winds along an emerald coast, surrounded by maquis with its warm, woody scents, and that ends, at sunset, at the foot of a lighthouse where you can spend the night.
This hiking trail connects the massive Genoese tower at Campomoro (Campumoru) to the Senetosa Lighthouse in Southern Corsica, between Propriano and Bonifacio. My brother had already hiked it in 2019 (though he didn’t spend the night there—a mistake to be corrected, no doubt) and came back with unforgettable memories.
So today, I’m sharing my conversation with Eric Susini, one of the proud “guardians” of the “Fanali di Senetosa” —as they say in the Sartenais dialect. With great enthusiasm, he told me about the history of Senetosa, how to get there, and the lodging options, rounding it all off with some tips for travelers who want to add this unique experience to their next trip to Corsica.
Table of Contents
- Where is the Senetosa Lighthouse located?
- What is the history of the lighthouse and the natural area surrounding it?
- The hike from Campomoro to Senetosa (via Tizzano).
- How do you get to the Senetosa Lighthouse?
- Not a hotel or a bed-and-breakfast, but a mountain lodge (for up to 2 nights)
- A few tips before you get started
Where is the Senetosa Lighthouse located?
Take a map of Corsica and head southwest along the majestic coastline of the Sartenais-Valinco micro-region. To get “close” (so to speak) to the lighthouse, it takes 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours by car from Ajaccio, or 1 hour and 15 minutes coming up from Bonifacio. We’re only about 20 minutes from Sartène, which Mérimée dubbed “the most Corsican of Corsican towns.”
But simply pinpointing the “Fanali di Senetosa” is not enough. The site as a whole encompasses a preserved stretch of coastline that extends from the Genoese tower at Campomoro (further north, toward Propriano) to the lighthouse—located further down—and continues—for the most experienced hikers—all the way to the port village of Tizzano.
Now that you have a general idea of where to go, let me tell you the story of the Campomoro Tower, and then that of the Senetosa Lighthouse. And if you don’t have time for that (too bad), skip ahead to the directions for the hiking trail further down in the article.
What is the history of the lighthouse and the natural area surrounding it?
Let’s talk a little about the historical events that led to the creation of this vast natural and heritage site, which spans 2,300 hectares from Campumoru to Tivedda.
The History of the Genoese Tower in Campomoro
The Campomoro Tower is quite simply the most massive tower on the entire “Isle of Beauty.” The Genoese oversaw its construction in the 16th century for defensive purposes; at that time, and for centuries prior, Corsica had frequently suffered devastating raids carried out by the Moors.
It was the infamous “Sartène raid” of 1583—during which 2,000 Arab pirates attacked the town to kidnap hundreds of villagers—that prompted the urgent construction of this tower.
Standing 15 meters tall with its star-shaped walls, it faces the Mediterranean and now welcomes visitors to a permanent (paid) exhibition on the Genoese towers of Corsica.
The Campomoro Tower is open only from April through October; you can explore it from the outside on a leisurely walk (about a 1-hour stroll if you take your time).
The History of the Senetosa Lighthouse
It all began with a sensational shipwreck, Eric Susini explains to me: “the sinking of the Tasmania, a British steamship returning from India with a cargo of exceptional value (ivory, opium, hides, spices…) and more than 300 passengers and crew members on board.”
In the middle of the night in April 1887, just as the ship had passed the Madonetta Lighthouse off the coast of Bonifacio, it crashed into the breakers not far from Roccapina (whose beach and stone lion are now famous tourist attractions). Some of the passengers and crew members died, while the survivors were rescued on the coast the next day.
The cargo—with the exception of the precious stones—was thus lost along with the shipwreck. The insurance company at the time determined that the blame for this tragedy lay with the lack of coastal navigation aids… for which the French Ministry of the Navy was held responsible.
And so, in 1894, the construction of the Senetosa Lighthouse was officially approved. This semaphore station complemented the lesser-known one at Cap Feno—which was already guiding ships heading south. It also stood alongside an ancient Genoese tower, the Senetosa Tower, which, ironically, had been used to watch the sea for protection against Barbary pirate raids a few centuries earlier…
The Senetosa Lighthouse is being built according to a design unique in France: it has two towers to accommodate the area’s geographical characteristics, since ships’ courses can change suddenly due to currents. Although the construction cost exceeded the norm—largely due to technical and logistical challenges—the goal was to avoid a repeat of the disaster at the Récif des Moines.
During the first sixty years, “the first lighthouse keepers lived at the Senetosa Lighthouse with their families.” Life here is far from everything, in the lighthouse that prides itself on being “the most isolated in Southern Corsica.” Even the boat docks cannot withstand the storms that batter Senetosa.
A hermit’s life was finally abandoned—or nearly so—with the implementation in 1956 of a new work system (involving a rotation of several keepers). It wasn’t until 1988 that the lighthouse was automated, gradually marking the end of its traditional occupation.
“Private companies then tried to ‘get their hands on’ the lighthouse, but the site’s managers (the Elisa association), with the support of the Conservatoire du Littoral, managed to keep it in public hands,”recalls Eric Susini. The restoration of the Senetosa lighthouse, “carried out with European funding, ” made it possible to convert it into a shelter in 2016.
The hike from Campomoro to Senetosa (via Tizzano).
If you’ve made it this far, it’s because the prospect of exploring the Campomoro Tower and—perhaps—spending the night in the Senetosa Lighthouse has you excited… So let’s talk a little about the hike that awaits you; keep in mind that there are several coastal routes to choose from, depending on how long you’d like to hike.
The elevation gain is very slight overall, so this coastal trail is accessible to everyone. You’ll stroll along a flat, sandy path dotted with secluded coves, fragrant scrubland, and sun-drenched vistas. On windy days, though, be careful: the wind blows strongly in this region.
The trail starts (to the north) in Campomoro and extends to the Hermitage of the Trinity in Bonifacio (in the far south). “Be careful,” says Eric Susini, “because there are ‘areas that the Coastal Conservation Agency has not yet been able to take over, or that we are currently unable to maintain adequately.’”
As for the Tizzano-Senetosa trail, the refuge caretaker says it’s “hard to say exactly how long it takes to complete this route. “We estimate 3 or even 4 hours, but if you hike at a brisk pace, you can even do it in just over an hour.”
The hike from Campomoro to Senetosa takes 4 to 6 hours, depending on your pace. Everything is clearly explained on the Senetosa Lighthouse website.
For the more adventurous who would like to hike the entire trail, from Campomoro to Tizzano (and back), “plan on a full day of hiking, covering about 20 km.”
How do you get to the Senetosa Lighthouse?
As you can see, there are two starting points for the hike: either in the north, from Campomoro, or in the south, from Tizzano.
I’d actually recommend doing the Tizzano–Senetosa hike first, because the parking restrictions on the Campomoro side are much stricter; you can’t park for more than 4 hours in the village parking lot (which charges a fee), because after that, you’re guaranteed to get a ticket. Needless to say, if you’re planning a hike longer than 4 hours, this is a problem (go figure).
In short, if you want to visit the tower and take a short walk around the area (via the path known as “Bassa Torra”), no problem; just try to arrive early during peak season—parking spots are in high demand. If you’re planning to spend the night at the lighthouse, it’s best to start from Tizzano (at the far end of the hamlet, at the designated parking area).
Finally, if you’d rather set sail, you can reach the Senetosa Lighthouse by boat. A wonderful coastal cruise awaits.
Not a hotel or a bed-and-breakfast, but a mountain lodge (for up to 2 nights)
Contrary to what some articles might lead you to believe, the Senetosa Lighthouse—often described as “unique lodging”—is neither a hotel nor a bed-and-breakfast. It is a mountain hut, just like the huts along the GR20… with a few differences.
“People can stay for a maximum of two nights,” explains Eric Susini. Reservations are primarily made online, through the official website, to ensure more reliable management of accommodations (so be sure to book your stay in advance).
“We have 4 double rooms in the lighthouse (€20 per person), 2 dormitories with 8 beds each (€15 per person) in the dining hall, and a camping area that can accommodate up to 40 people and costs €8 per night.” You’ll therefore need to pay for your overnight stay, the on-site shower, breakfast, sheet rental, tent rental… And don’t forget to bring your own food, since “every guest must bring their own dinner. The policy is to be accessible to everyone, but without requiring guests to purchase a meal.”
Important note: The Senetosa shelter opens around 6:00 p.m. and closes the next morning around 9:30 a.m. (for lodging). “Breakfast is served from 6:30 a.m. until 9:00 a.m. at the latest.” So there’s no need to stop by between 9:30 a.m. and 6:00 p.m., except to stock up on drinks and get information.
During the off-season, between November and February, only groups of at least 10 people are accepted—and only with a prior reservation. This is important if you plan to explore Southern Corsica in the middle of winter.
A few tips before you get started
When asked what advice he might give to hikers, my interviewee recalled the occasional cases of heatstroke and/or dehydration that have been reported at the lighthouse. “It’s basic, but during the summer, bring water—at least 2 liters per person.”
“If possible, try to leave later in the day—around 4:30 or 5:00 p.m.—even if it means arriving at 8:00 or 8:30 p.m. This helps you avoid heatstroke and extreme fatigue, especially with the current heat.” And you’ll still be able to check in in the evening, so you might as well avoid exposing yourself to the heat unnecessarily.
It would be a shame to ruin such an exceptional experience because of a sudden rush of heat…
For more information: the Senetosa Lighthouse’s Facebook and Instagram pages, and the Campumoru Tower’s Facebook page.
