How can we talk about Corsican cuisine without mentioning its cheeses? A while back, I got in touch with the Casgiu Casanu association—which brings together more than 120 farm-style cheese producers on the island—to learn how to recognize a farm-style cheese and understand its unique characteristics. We’ll discuss production criteria, varieties, and the best wines to pair with these flavors.
What is the role of the Casgiu Casanu association in Corsica?
The Casgiu Casanu association brings together the island’s farm-based cheese producers. It was founded in 1999 at the initiative of the producers when new hygiene standards established by European regulations were being implemented.
Thanks to this collaboration, many Corsican farmers were able to continue their operations in the face of draconian regulations that were unsustainable for small-scale producers. By joining forces and drawing on a network of experts (both local and national), the farmers were able to interpret the regulations and propose to local veterinary authorities the provisions that actually applied to our small-scale production, processed directly on the farm.
We also believe that every shepherd should have a better understanding of their rights, responsibilities, and opportunities to expand their production with greater autonomy. We are therefore launching newsletters and training programs for producers.
Finally, since 2005, we have had a collective brand called Casgiu Casanu, which allows the association’s farmers to gain greater visibility and, as a result, be more accessible to customers.
This support for the marketing of our products also includes the publication, every two to three years, of a directory for retailers that lists many of our members and describes their products, availability periods, and producer contact information.
This also involves our cheese delivery service. We have a partnership with a local refrigerated transport company, which allows each of our members to deliver to customers throughout the island, regardless of where the shepherd or shepherdess is located.
What are the distinctive characteristics of Corsican cheeses?
If we agree on what is meant by “Corsican cheese” (cheese made from milk produced on the island), many of its distinctive characteristics stem from milk sourced from animals that are most often of local breeds (Corsican goats, Corsican sheep), whose primary food source remains the maquis or multi-species pastures.
We can therefore observe variations in milk (fat content and flavor profiles) depending on the season and, consequently, on the types of feed consumed by the animals.
Our animals produce 3 to 5 times less milk than some sheep and goats on the mainland. But this milk yields better-quality cheese and, above all, has flavors closely tied to local resources.
Furthermore, traditionally, Corsican cheese-making methods are known as “rennet-based” methods, which produce a mild (non-acidic) whey suitable for making the famous Brocciu—our “national cheese.”
How can you tell if a cheese is “farm-made”?
Farm-made cheese is governed by the 2007 Cheese Decree. Cheese may be referred to as “farm-made ” “when it is produced using traditional methods by a farmer who processes only milk from his or her own farm on the farm’s premises.”
Thus, the entire process of making the cheese is tied to a farm, that is to say:
- a unique terroir that gives the herd’s milk its distinctive sensory qualities,
- a production method unique to each farmer,
- a unique cheese-making environment, particularly the cellar, which allows the product to develop all its distinctive characteristics.
A Corsican farm product is truly one that directly reflects its terroir and the producer’s expertise. By definition, farm-made cheese can therefore only come from a farmer’s own operation in Corsica, whereas non-farm producers may, if necessary, source milk or cheese from other regions and label it under their own brand name—which, of course, evokes Corsica.
One characteristic of Corsican farm cheese is that it is made entirely from raw milk. Non-farm cheeses are generally made from pasteurized or thermized milk, and these heat treatments alter the richness of the milk.
Farmers also include their contact information on their labels, which allows interested consumers to visit the farm directly to purchase their products. This gives consumers the opportunity to see firsthand how the cheese is produced and how the animals are raised.
What are the main categories of Corsican cheeses?
There are six main types of traditional cheeses in Corsica:
- Sartinese is a pressed cheese aged for about 60 days with a dry rind. It differs from other cheeses in that it is pressed by hand during the molding process to remove as much whey as possible. Other traditional cheeses, on the other hand, are not pressed during molding; they drain naturally.
- Bastelicaccia, which is a short-aged cheese (about 30 days) with a bloomy rind,
- Venachese, a washed-rind cheese aged for about 45 days,
- Niolu, a washed-rind cheese that is salted more heavily during the draining process so it can be aged longer,
- Calenzana, which is also very salty when drained and, most importantly, is aged in closed wooden crates for 6 to 12 months. The flavor of the cheese intensifies with the length of the aging process.
- Finally, there’s also fresh cheese. This cheese is made the same way as the unpressed cheeses mentioned above, but it’s sold to consumers on the evening it’s made or the next day to be enjoyed on a cheese platter or in a salad. It’s a very mild, refreshing cheese. For cooking (migliaccioli, cheese fritters, etc.), it’s best to use fresh cheese that’s been made for two days, as it will be easier to work with.
What are some good pairings for island cheeses?
Together with the Slow Food association, we organize tastings—particularly at A Fiera di u Casgiu—that pair Corsican wines with Corsican farm-fresh cheeses. We have currently identified the following pairings:
- Bastelicaccia is best paired with a Blanc de Plaine (e.g., Domaine Casabianca)
- Venachese is best paired with white wine from Balagne or Ajaccio (granitic soil).
- Sartinese pairs well with white wine from Cap Corse or Patrimonio
- With Niolu and Calinzanincu, it’s best to go with sweet, syrupy wines: Muscat du Cap Corse or Rappu
In short, Corsica is brimming with countless cheese treasures that offer us ever-changing flavors… all while honoring the island’s traditions.
