When people talk about the island’s cuisine, Brocciu is immediately mentioned as THE island’s iconic cheese. In fact, the poet Emile Bergerat wrote at the end of the 19th century: “Anyone who hasn’t tasted it doesn’t know the island.”
Brocciu is a local product made from goat’s or sheep’s milk and whey, similar to other Italian or Sardinian products. A type of fresh cheese, perhaps, but decidedly unique in its flavors, uses, and the patriotic attachment it inspires in Corsica. This undoubtedly justifies its designation as a product with a protected designation of origin since 1963 and an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) since 1998.
To learn more about the secrets behind this renowned dish—one of the most comforting on the Isle of Beauty—I spent some time with the producers at the Valicella estate. It was an exceptionally enriching experience that took me even further down the path of local craftsmanship.
A Little Culture About Brocciu
In Corsica, there is a legend about the origins of brocciu. Such a marvel can only stem from extraordinary tales. Here is the legend as told on the official website of the Brocciu PDO:
Once upon a time, there was the Casa di l’Urcu. According to legend, in times long past, the dolmen known as the Casa di l’Urcu was inhabited by a particularly cruel ogre. Finally, the local residents decided to get rid of this terrible giant, who not only terrorized them but also stole their sheep and goats. However, the ogre possessed a precious secret: the recipe for making Brocciu. When the shepherds managed to capture him through trickery, he offered to trade his delicious recipe in exchange for his life. The shepherds pretended to agree, and when the ogre revealed his secret to them, they killed him without further ado.
How do you eat Brocciu?
Brocciu is widely eaten in Corsica—plain, as an accompaniment to traditional dishes such as “pulenda” (polenta), or as a dessert with sugar and“acqua vita.”
There are many recipes featuring brocciu: falculelle and imbrucciate (pastries), fiadone (a cake said to originate from Bastia), brocciu omelet, cannelloni and ravioli with brocciu, storzapretti, fritelle (fritters), terrines with brocciu and mint, etc. The list goes on…
It’s 6 a.m. at the Valicella estate in Southern Corsica…
There are places like that, where you feel right at home from the start. That’s the case in Valicella. A soothing atmosphere of calm and harmony with nature takes hold from the very first hours of the day. Valicella, which means “little valley,” is located a few kilometers from Figari, in the far south of Corsica. It’s a place that truly lives up to its name: here, the plains stretch as far as the eye can see, punctuated by a few small valleys that add depth to this timeless landscape.
The estate’s roughly 450 ewes have been awake for a while by the time I arrive. It’s 6 a.m. The stillness invites me to gaze at the mountains taking shape in the dawn light. I slip on my boots, put on an apron, and—with great flair—place a hairnet on my head. It’s not even daylight yet, and I already feel as though I’m at the height of beauty.
The day has been underway here for several hours now. The more than 300 liters of milk from the two milkings the day before have had time to warm up. When I arrive, that milk is in the process of becoming cheese.
Every morning, the Tomme Sartenaise is the first cheese to be made. As the milk heats up, it develops a firm texture. This still-warm curd is placed into molds with two different-sized holes. Our skilled hands then perform the first pressing. This essential step gives the cheese its attractive shape and allows the whey to drain off. These fresh tommes are turned over, wrapped in a cloth, pressed, and then salted. All of them are then smoked for about ten days and finish aging in the ripening cellar for several months.
From the cauldron to the cheese strainer: the tradition of Brocciu
Meanwhile, everyone is busy at the cauldron. The whey from the cheese has been collected. Salt and fresh milk—set aside earlier—are added, and the magic begins. The temperature rises slowly in the cheese shop. The whey reaches a temperature of 80°C. I feel like I’ve gone back in time and am conducting experiments as a young scientist. After nearly an hour of heating, the whey has turned into a hot paste, giving off the characteristic aroma of fresh Brocciu.
A product deeply rooted in local identity and tradition, the production of this cheese has complied with the specifications set by the Brocciu Corse PDO since 1998. In fact, it is the first product from the island’s dairy industry to have been awarded PDO status.
Every brocciu is different
If this fresh cheese doesn’t end up in the hands of food lovers like me, it will become “Brocciu Passu” if the cheesemaker decides to let it age for at least 21 days, without a rind.
You can also find the salty, soft, and moist version, the “Brocciu Salitu,” or the “Brocciu Secu” (aged for at least 4 months). Not all producers make all of these types of cheese; the “secu” is not common in southern Corsica.
I wondered why every piece of brocciu was different. And Thomas’s answer was very simple: “We don’t all have the same herd. “
Brocciu all year round?
Here, in fact, brocciu is produced from December through June. This is known as a “off-season” production schedule—that is, one adapted to lowland sheep farming and the ewes’ lambing seasons. In the mountains, the schedule may be reversed (known as “seasonal”), which explains why brocciu is sometimes available in the middle of summer.
In the still-warm cauldron, Thomas, Charlotte, El Adi, and I dip our small cheese strainer baskets in, taking care not to break the delicate curd. Placed on racks, hot and steaming, the brocciu actually drains very little: quickly wrapped, it’s delivered to customers right away.
The hours flew by in the cheese shop. The sweet aromas of this white nectar whetted my appetite, and I have to admit it’s hard not to dip a small spoon into those cheese strainers!
The Legacy of the Marcellesi Family
It’s 8:30 a.m. when we step outside. It’s time for the farm to begin its second day. The morning’s milk is being poured into the tanks. Thomas is getting ready for deliveries. At the cheese factory, we head down to the cellar to turn the tommes, while at the sheepfold, the ewes are gradually released after milking. The relaxed atmosphere amid this constant activity is pleasant—even inspiring.
60 Years of Agro-Pastoral Heritage
Valicella is a family-run farm founded in the 1960s by Thomas’s grandfather. Sheep, pigs, and cows used to graze here… It was a time “when everyone had animals and grew their own food.”
Jean José, Thomas’s father, took over the farm in the 2000s. This transition was marked by the restructuring of the farm into a fully-fledged agricultural operation and a refocus on sheep raising. Thomas took over in 2017. Although he hadn’t originally planned to become the farm manager he is today, the transition came about naturally after he earned his BTS in International Business and spent a few years traveling. Today, he is “happy to be working on the family farm.”
Every hour of every day gives him the chance to take on a different role. As a new-generation artisan, Thomas works alongside his father. One brings his experience, knowledge, and perspective, while the other brings a fresh outlook on agriculture and new ideas in line with current ecological and economic models.
Dual AOP and Organic Certification
Today, the estate’s 200 hectares are certified organic. The five hectares of olive groves, which are also organic, are managed using natural methods. A small portion of the plots is sown, the hay is produced on-site, and soil cultivation is carefully monitored.
The products bear the “AOP Oliu di Corsica” and “AOP Brocciu Corse” labels. From production to sale, every step is carefully managed. Tommes, yogurt, brocciu, and olive oil are available at the estate, in specialty food stores, in organic shops, and at the farmers’ market “u Core Paesanu.”
Accommodations in the heart of the farm
To fully immerse yourself in the world of Valicella, you can also stay in one of the estate’s seven guesthouses: true havens of peace in the heart of the vineyard, each thoughtfully decorated.
A Delicious Culinary Journey with Finidori and Nicolaï
Following the small signs along the Route des Sens, I decided to continue on my way. In Corsica, venturing out is also a way to meet local producers and artisans.
Pierre-Paul Nicolaï’s Journey as a Winemaker
Shortly after Valicella, I met Pierre-Paul Nicolaï, a young winemaker with a contagious smile. Pierre-Paul took the time to tell me about his venture, which he started in 2011 on his grandfather’s land.
From his family history—marked by his grandfather’s ingenuity—to the vineyard’s current state, which took him nearly 10 years to restore, he told me how one becomes a winemaker starting from scratch. From this adventure full of twists and turns, it’s clear that his tenacity and faith in the face of adversity would make “pragmatists shudder.”
The first vintage was released in 2020, and Pierre-Paul continues with passion on his journey to discover the exciting craft of winemaking. Vermentinu, Sciaccarellu, and Niellucciu thrive on these hillside vineyards, designated under the Figari AOP and cultivated organically.
Maxence Finidori’s Corsican Deli
A little further up, I ended my little road trip at the Piscia estate. There, I met up with Maxence Finidori, a cheerful and humorous farmer who raises about 200 black pigs on nearly 60 hectares of scrubland.
Maxence, a producer of Corsican charcuterie with PDO certification, gave me a tour of his farm, his artisanal charcuterie workshop, and his magnificent underground aging cellar. As with cheese, charcuterie production is seasonal in Corsica. It is during the winter, between November and March, that the bulk of the “processing” takes place. In keeping with tradition, Maxence produces the traditional Figatellu (or Figateddu), sausage, Coppa, Lonzu, artisanal terrines and pâtés… and, of course, Prisuttu.
The result of this culinary journey: a “spuntinu” bursting with flavor, of course.
