Never far away, the sea has left its mark on the long history of Cap Corse, through which Mediterranean civilizations have flowed. Romans, Etruscans, Carthaginians, Pisans, and Genoese—all contributed to the development and enrichment of this peninsula, whose location at the heart of the Mediterranean made it a strategic stronghold.
Once isolated due to a lack of overland transportation routes, Cape Town gave rise to a seafaring people open to the outside world. Over the centuries, they shaped the region amid trade, Barbary pirate raids, and internal strife.
From small hamlets with traditional charm to coastal villages that once served as landing places for trade, the traveler’s gaze is constantly drawn to the peninsula’s unique architecture: Genoese towers, fortified houses built by the Avogari or Da Mare lords, and, of course, the “Palazzi di l’Americani” (houses of the Americans) built by Corsicans from Cap Corse who left to seek their fortune in the Americas.
Whether by choice or by force, over the course of more than four centuries—from the 16th to the 20th—some 4,000 people from Cap-Corsin emigrated to the Americas in search of prosperity and new horizons. This departure across the oceans—which required a long journey—was the result of several upheavals, such as overpopulation and the phylloxera epidemic, which plunged families into hardship.
This exile would take the islanders to the East Coast of the United States, to Puerto Rico, and to Venezuela, where they would all attempt to improve their circumstances—with some success. Indeed, we can say today that many of them succeeded in their efforts.
Having made their fortunes in coffee, cocoa, or sugarcane, the people of Cap Corse cannot forget the difficult situation their loved ones find themselves in, even though they are on the other side of the world. As a result, they send money to provide much-needed assistance, while the wealthiest among them devote the rest of their wealth to building vast mansions, known as “palazzi.”
These beautiful rectangular mansions, adorned with columns, featuring spacious interiors and large windows, are architecturally influenced by their host countries and by the Tuscan neoclassical style of the period.
In keeping with the region’s architectural tradition, the palazzi are generally topped with a four-sloped teghje roof. These colonial-inspired houses rise several stories high, accessed by a majestic central staircase. The ceilings are adorned with beautiful paintings or moldings, while some rooms are decorated with tapestries. All around, parks and gardens bloom on terraces planted with palm trees and exotic trees.
Palazzu Nicrosi: A Charming Residence and Home to Renowned Wine
According to one estimate, there are no fewer than a hundred of them throughout Cap Corse, including the remarkable Palazzu Nicrosi in Ruglianu.
Setting out to make his fortune in the Americas in 1852, Pierre-Marie Nicrosi arrived in Montgomery, Alabama, at the young age of 15, after being forced to enlist as a sailor to travel to “the Southern States.” Upon arriving at his destination after several weeks at sea, he decided to leave the ship, thereby breaking his contract—a decision that made the crossing a journey of no return.
Once there, he met up with a friend who already owned a tea shop and with whom he would later open a self-service store. This was a revolution for customers, who, at the time, were not accustomed to being able to serve themselves in the aisles of stores.
With this successful business venture, Pierre-Marie then began building his own “American-style” house, which he would discover upon his return to the island in 1874.
Today, Paul Saladini has transformed the Palazzu Nicrosi into a charming inn offering spacious rooms with views of the sea. In the early morning, from one of the windows in their room, travelers can watch the rising sun bathe the islands of Finocchiarola, Elba, and Capraia in its light.
Down below, the vineyards of Clos Nicrosi, tended by Paul’s uncle, produce grapes that yield a white wine renowned for its quality and originality. At aperitif time, you can enjoy a craft beer infused with Corsican immortelle, brewed right in the palazzu’s old wine cellars.
Villa Gaspiari-Ramelli: A Fusion of Art and Culture
Since they are private properties, it is rare to be able to tour these imposing mansions.
In Siscu, Rose-Marie Carrega decided to open the doors of Villa Gaspari-Ramelli, where she exhibits her artists’ work throughout the year. The cultural events held there allow visitors to discover the beauty of these exceptional buildings.
The story always begins in the Americas. In 1840, Simon Giovanni Gaspari, who had been living in Venezuela since 1827, told his brother—who had remained in Corsica—of his desire to have a new house built that would be “more modern and more comfortable.” ” His other brother, Santo, who was also in Venezuela, took part in the construction, and work began in 1842. During the construction, Simon Giovanni—no longer wishing to return to Corsica—sold his share of the house to Santo, who became its sole owner.
In 1859, the house was completed, and Santo decided to settle in Corsica after having pursued a distinguished career as a physician and politician in Venezuela (in 1846, he was elected deputy for the state of Guyana, and then governor in 1858).
Castel Brando, an exceptional hotel in Cap Corse
On the east coast of Cape Town, the Castel Brando Hotel has also taken up residence within the walls of one of these American-owned homes.
Built in 1853 by a Corsican doctor who served in Napoleon’s army, the building was taken over a few years later by a native of the village upon his return from Santo Domingo, after spending several decades there. He had a lush, exotic garden planted there before the house eventually fell into ruin and was restored in 1990.
The next time you’re in Le Cap, take a good look at the hillsides and the scrubland: you might spot a little piece of America there…
