With Balagn’âne, rediscover the Corsican donkey, an endemic animal with a thousand uses

In Corsica, it is perhaps one of the most important symbols of the island’s heritage. The Corsican donkey—a breed recognized in 2020 thanks to the efforts of a handful of enthusiasts, much like the paganacciu, the Corsican horse —is now thriving through guided tours, fairs, cosmetics production, and other local attractions.

But to truly rediscover it, you still need to talk to the right people. That’s certainly true of Olivier Fondacci: an activist and the owner of Balagn’âne in Haute-Corse, he took the time to have a fascinating conversation with me… right in the middle of the Agricultural Show.

The Corsican donkey, or rather… “U Sumeru Corsu”

An integral part of postcard imagery and a versatile workhorse in the Corsican society of our ancestors, the donkey is believed to have arrived on the island at least “600 years before our era, from the Horn of Africa, ” according to Olivier Fondacci.

Physically, “u sumeru corsu” is distinguished by its “dove-gray” or “slate-gray” coat, its height (between 1.15 and 1.29 meters), and especially by its sturdy, zebra-striped limbs, inherited from its African ancestors. On its back is the famous “St. Andrew’s Cross.” But what exactly is it? The answer is further down in the article.

“It’s an animal perfectly adapted to the island’s climate, rugged terrain, and sparse vegetation,” the breeder adds, noting that “a Norman donkey, on the other hand, would not be able to withstand the harsh conditions of the Corsican mountains and scrubland.”

Its temperament also makes it quite unique. “Much like the island’s inhabitants,” jokes Olivier Fondacci, “the Corsican donkey is lively and spirited—you shouldn’t provoke it.” —which brings us to a discussion of the causes behind the infamous attack on several tourists by a donkey in the Ospedale Forest in 2013.

So how can we tell—beyond physical and behavioral characteristics—if a donkey is officially part of the local breed? “A Sumeru Corsican donkey must have a Corsican name and must have been born on the island; that’s where it was born,” replies the donkey breeder, adding in passing that the animal “must have been reviewed by a committee to be certified as an ANC, or Corsican Breed Donkey.”

In an article published on CorseNetInfos, Olivier Fondacci warns buyers against purchasing a donkey that has not been “certified,” because with the growing interest in donkeys since their official recognition in 2020, sales are on the rise… Sometimes without any certification and at an unjustified price. He therefore urges potential buyers to consult the association beforehand, and encourages owners who wish to have their donkey recognized to contact the commission (some own animals that could qualify for official status but have not taken the necessary steps).

If you’re traveling in the south of France, you might be surprised by the local donkeys. As a fun fact, “the Provençal donkey was bred from the Corsican donkey, which explains the similarities between the two animals. “ But they’re not the same.

The legend of the “St. Andrew’s Cross” drawn on the donkey’s back

Let’s briefly revisit this symbolic and easily recognizable motif that the Corsican donkey bears on its shoulders… This cross extends from the nape of the neck to the tail (along the spine) and connects the two shoulders.

This mark is both unique and common, since this dark cross can be found on many donkeys, not just those from the island: in fact, according to another donkey breeder in Corsica (Altarocc’Anes), it is an African trait shared by many breeds.

To learn about the origins of this symbol, we must go back several millennia to Palestine. Legend has it that Mary (the mother of Jesus) fled Egypt on the back of a donkey. To thank the animal, the Virgin Mary blessed it by tracing a Latin cross on its back. The biological explanation would be less poetic… So let’s stick with this one.

The island’s largest donkey farm

There aren’t many breeders in Corsica who are working to preserve the “sumeru corsu.” Just a handful, because most owners don’t manage their herds professionally and don’t pursue certification.

But “for a breed to survive, there need to be about twenty births each year, ” Olivier Fondacci points out. More committed than anyone else to this mission to preserve the breed—driven by his passion—he now manages the island’s largest donkey farm, with nearly a hundred donkeys in Balagne—including 60 Corsican female donkeys.

The man campaigned for 10 years to have the Corsican donkey recognized as an official breed—the eighth in France—and protected, and accepted in agricultural breed competitions. This commitment makes Balagn’âne the only recognized breeding facility in Corsica, and certainly a must-visit destination for anyone who wants to get up close and personal with these animals.

A whole new world is emerging today around the donkey: first, the celebration of cultural heritage, including everything related to the animal and its many uses (tools, traditional structures, and even mills like the one found in the village of Santa Reparata). Opportunities “for young people who want to settle down” and develop a local business. And, of course, a wide range of products and experiences, from cosmetics to recreational activities.

Unsurprisingly, Olivier Fondacci and the “U sumeru corsu” commission still have projects in the works. “We’re going to work on developing several coat colors (chocolate, for example) and on creating a Corsican mule.” We can only support this initiative.

Several experiences to enjoy at the Balagn’âne donkey farm

More than just a donkey farm, Balagn’âne offers a variety of local activities and services, starting with tours of the farm (which must be booked in advance to ensure someone will be there to greet you) and the soap-making workshop—which I’ll tell you about next.

If you’re in the mood for a donkey ride, that’s certainly possible—with rides for children and adults organized year-round; the duration ranges from 1 hour for a discovery ride… to several days for full-fledged treks through the maquis.

For those who live (or frequently visit) Balagne, there’s a good chance you’ll come across the animals from this donkey farm at fairs or local events—when they’re not helping out with vegetable farming… or appearing in film and television productions. “They keep us busy,” admits Olivier Fondacci.

A line of cosmetics made with organic donkey milk, distinctly Corsican

“We also make organic cosmetics that are 100% Corsican,” adds the donkey breeder, for whom quality is of paramount importance—especially when you learn that he is the only producer of Corsican donkey milk on the entire island. His soaps contain up to 40% donkey milk, “whereas other producers and brands generally use dehydrated milk and sell soaps labeled ‘with donkey milk’ even when the actual content is as low as 4%…”

The benefits of this milk for the skin—and for overall health—are well established. Since donkey milk and human milk are very similar nutritionally—highly nutritious and lower in fat than cow’s milk—donkey milk was once used as a substitute for breast milk.

Building on this natural “heritage,” Olivier Fondacci is spearheading a new project: to establish a donkey milk AOP for each recognized breed, “with a set of common specifications.”

But don’t try to order Balagn’âne soaps (or their fresh products, such as ice cream or yogurt) online: the producer sells only small quantities directly to customers at fairs and in their shop. So you’ll have to visit in person to discover their wide range of cosmetics and gourmet treats (honey, products made with donkey and goat milk, and more), available in the shop and in the dining area of the donkey farm.

Where can I find Balagn’âne?

Head to Haute-Corse, a few kilometers from the charming villages of Sant’Antonino and Pigna, on the hills above L’Ile-Rousse. It’s in Santa Reparata di Balagna that you’ll find the Balagn’âne donkey farm.

Take advantage of your outing to stop by the charming surrounding towns or to explore the Corsican artisans’ route.

Finally: What do they call a donkey in Corsica?

Certainly not by yelling at him. More seriously, “donkey” is translated in several ways in Corsican, depending on the local dialect—even though dictionaries generally list “u sumere.” There are also “u samere,” “u sumeru,” “u sameri,” and, further south, “l’asinu.” Be sure to pronounce the “u” as “ou” and the “s” as “z”…

And there you go—you’ve (almost) got the right accent.