Wild and sparsely populated, the Porto-Cargèse micro-region stretches across a vast area between the sea and the mountains. From Cargèse, with its Greek heritage, to Porto, with its granite landscapes, countless treasures await discovery in this land of contrasts, where the fragrant maquis blends with the sea spray of the Mediterranean. The journey through this marvelous garden begins in Cargèse, a village with two churches and picturesque narrow streets.
This route will then take us toward the Gulf of Porto, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, before we head inland to explore the breathtaking Spelunca Gorges, carved out by the force of the water. Finally, we’ll climb higher to cross the Aïtone Forest as we reach the highest point of this odyssey: the Vergio Pass.
Discover Cargèse and its two churches
A region of a thousand facets, our adventure in this western part of the island begins in Cargèse. A village with two churches—one Orthodox and the other Catholic—this Greek settlement has had a tumultuous history. Ange discusses this in much greater detail in the history of the Greek colony of Paomia-Cargèse.
A historic village with a unique charm
Founded in the 17th century, the town was established after 800 Greeks from Laconia fled persecution by the Turks. Rather than submit to the more powerful invader, the settlers set sail for Genoa before being diverted to Corsica and Paomia.
It was here, on this fertile land, that they decided to make their new home. The local people, who viewed the arrival of these refugees from elsewhere with suspicion, eventually succeeded—after numerous attempts—in driving them out. After several decades of forced exile in Ajaccio, the Greeks founded their new colony in 1676 on a seaside plateau not far from Paomia: Cargèse.
At the northern tip of the Gulf of Sagone, this village of 1,300 residents has a unique charm with its pretty narrow streets and pastel-colored houses. A lively little town, especially during the summer when it attracts many visitors, Cargèse has earned a reputation as a place that is both peaceful and scandalous.
While both churches are must-see attractions—especially the Orthodox Church of Saint Spiridion, with its icons and rich murals—Cargèse is also known for its beaches.
From white-sand beaches to inviting terraces
Coming from Ajaccio, Menasina—with its turquoise waters and white sand—is a place of absolute tranquility where it’s wonderful to take a dip to cool off. The beaches of Peru and Chiuni, further north, also invite you to relax and enjoy the summer heat.
At the end of the day, you can grab a bite to eat by enjoying a mouthwatering Neapolitan pizza at Pizzeria Maremmiese or relaxing on the cozy terrace at Café Yuka. Founded by Stéphane, the establishment draws its heritage from the tradition of sharing a drink with friends that his grandparents started in the garden of the family home. Today, Stéphane carries on this tradition by welcoming guests to his restaurant, which has been open for several years now.
Take in the sights of the treasures of the Gulf of Porto
Highly popular with tourists and Corsicans seeking a change of scenery, the Gulf of Porto is a gem that has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983.
The Calanques of Piana, a “natural cathedral”
Among all the treasures hidden there, the Calanques of Piana are breathtakingly pristine. A stone cathedral of striking verticality, the road that winds through the site snakes between the sharp, ochre-colored peaks and offers a magnificent view of much of the gulf.
From this natural balcony, a multitude of trails allow you to explore the surrounding area and reach hidden gems such as Capo d’Orto. A majestic granite peak, it rises to an elevation of 1,294 meters and offers a 360° view of the horizon. On one side, the sea stretches as far as the eye can see, while on the other, valleys and peaks unfold in a wild, remote landscape.
Down on solid ground, where the swell sometimes crashes furiously against the jagged shore, Ficajola Cove offers a soothing sense of peace.
Be aware, however, that the site can get extremely crowded in July and August. And between us, we’d rather avoid overcrowding the island’s coastline.
From Capo Rosso to Arone, the untamed
Still on the D824, a stop to stretch your legs is a welcome break on the way to Capo Rosso. This cliff is also a cape that marks the southern boundary of the Gulf of Porto. Allow about 1 hour and 30 minutes to reach the summit, which is crowned by a beautiful Genoese tower: the Turghiu Tower. The tower’s terrace is easily accessible and offers a breathtaking view overlooking the crystal-clear waters 335 meters below.
After this somewhat exhausting hike, you can relax your calves at Arone, a rare beach with fine sand set amid this rugged, rocky landscape.
To make the day last a little longer and enjoy the sunset while savoring a delicious meal or sipping a cocktail, there are two great spots to choose from in this idyllic setting: Le Café de la Plage or Le Casabianca. The menu features fish and seafood. However, for meat lovers, there are also some excellent cuts of meat on the menu.
The Fragile Scandola Reserve
Our tour of the Gulf of Porto continues with the Scandola Nature Reserve. Considered a hotspot for marine biodiversity, the reserve is described in no small measure of superlatives to convey its remarkable character.
Like a terra incognita, this peninsula jutting out toward the west embodies the meeting of water and fire. This rough diamond consists of caldera-like rock formations that are the remnants of an ancient volcano that collapsed into the sea. Managed by the Corsica Regional Nature Park, it was the first site in France dedicated to the preservation of both terrestrial and marine natural heritage. A haven for a multitude of species—some of which have long since disappeared entirely from the Mediterranean—the protected area spans nearly 1,700 hectares.
I cannot continue my tour without pointing out that Scandola is a marine area that needs to be protected. Due to excessive boat traffic, it lost a valuable environmental certification in 2019; however, no-go zones have now been established during the summer season in an effort to preserve what can still be saved. So, it’s best to visit during the off-season, and avoid getting too close to the shore so as not to disturb the animals that nest there (including the osprey, a critically endangered species).
A detour to Girolata, a small, nearly inaccessible port
Finally, how can we not mention Girolata and its little harbor? The hamlet is accessible by sea, but also by land—provided you put on your hiking shoes. In fact, there is no road suitable for vehicles connecting Girolata to the rest of the road network, so you’ll have to take the mail carrier’s trail to get there.
From the sea to the mountains on the D84, a spectacular route
Once you’ve finished exploring the coast, you can head inland along one of the island’s most spectacular roads: the D84. This route, which leads from the sea to the mountains, from Porto to the Vergio Pass, is truly one of a kind. In just under an hour, this picturesque route takes you from the coast to a mountain pass at an elevation of 1,477 meters.
First stop in Ota
The start of the route is lined with maquis and eucalyptus trees, species typical of the lowest Mediterranean vegetation zone. On the other side of the valley, which is bisected by the Porto River, the village of Ota is nestled on the mountainside.
With its charming stone houses and beautiful church, you’ll need to take the D124 to get there. The detour is well worth it, not only to explore the village but also to take a dip in the river near the Genoese bridge at Pianella. This first stop is memorable and gives travelers a fresh perspective on this region, which offers a rich variety of atmospheres.
For the more adventurous, follow the Tra Mare e Monti mule trail to the Genoese bridge at Zaglia to venture deep into the gorge. Breathtaking.
Evisa, Land of Chestnut Trees
As we climb higher, we approach Evisa, halfway along this route. Perched at an altitude of more than 800 meters, the village is known for its chestnut trees and its candied chestnuts. It is here that Marina Ceccaldi carries on the legacy of her mother, Françoise. Her small business, Insitina, produces candied chestnuts under the Dolci Corsi brand. A gourmet break is most welcome.
Aïtone, the green lung of Corsica
The atmosphere changes as we leave the village and enter the Aïtone Forest. With its towering Laricio pines—endemic to the “Isle of Beauty”—this deep, mysterious forest commands respect. Its canopy, rising more than twenty meters above the ground, makes us feel incredibly small. Secret trails and paths wind their way among the venerable trees, some of which may be several centuries old. Deep in the forest, you can dip your feet into natural pools of crystal-clear water. Not for the cold-natured.
And to think that it was here that Théodore Poli, surrounded by dozens of island bandits, declared the birth of the “Republic of Bandits” in the 18th century! But that’s another story…
Toward the mountains, and beyond
Our journey ends in Vergio, Corsica’s highest mountain pass. From this vantage point, a superb panorama of the Niolu Valley and the island’s most imposing peaks unfolds. Bathed in the blazing rays of the sun on hot summer days, the highest peaks of this untamed landscape are covered in winter with a delicate layer of ice that invites the most intrepid to strap on their crampons.
For it is here that the intrepid hiker can set out to conquer Mount Ninu, in the Corsican Lake Range…
