Corsica and most islands are made for the curious. You’ll never truly explore them all, because every turn catches your eye and stirs your thirst for discovery. And then there’s that magic here—the kind that ensures no single place ever feels static. Sometimes, even when you walk the same trail over and over again, it feels like you’re discovering a whole new world. The intensity of the light, the atmosphere, the sound of the water, the temperature of the air, the seasons… The tiniest detail completely transforms your experience of the moment.
It is this ambivalence that means I never tire of a landscape, even the most
accessible and least spectacular one. That is what led me to rediscover the Plaine Orientale and to walk the trails around its many ponds. As iconic natural treasures of the region, these trails offer a sense of peace, serve as refuges for endangered species, and are preserved wetlands where flora and fauna can thrive.
Stage 1: The Diana and Terrenzana Ponds Trail
Of course, I arrived early—very early—at the small parking lot at Pompugliani, a few kilometers north of Aléria. Because I wanted to see the sun rise, the colors change, and the sun rise above the water. I hurried down the little trail on the right and immediately reached the lookout point. From here, the view is panoramic, and you can’t help but take it all in.
I turn toward the rising sun and take a moment to take in the landscape. To my left, Terrenzana Pond gently comes into view behind what appears to be a forest bordering the water. At first glance, it looks more like a marshy area than a pond.
Its 152 hectares were neglected for a long time, which is why it is now an area untouched by human activity. This preservation is a boon to the birdlife, which I observed through my binoculars that morning. The flamingos are slowly waking up, the seagulls are calling, and a gray heron seems to be scanning the horizon.
The sun continues to rise. My eyes fall on the small hut dotting the shores of
, the pond. This hut, made of branches and wood in the tradition of eastern Corsica’s plains, serves as a reminder of this region’s history. Until the 1950s, this area served as a living space for shepherds during the transhumance season. Since the pebbles did not allow for the construction of sturdy dwellings, people used wood and branches, which were abundant along the water’s edge.
When you look at this panorama, another story unfolds. It’s the story of Diane’s Pond, just a few meters from Terrenzana and the mouth of the Pompugliani River. Looking out from the lookout point, I feel as though, right here, I can open a path to other lands. Eventually, after doing a little research, I discovered that for a long time, Diana’s Pond was a port—first for the Greeks, then for the Romans. That makes perfect sense!
The Diana Pond is considered the deepest of Corsica’s ponds—reaching depths of up to 11 meters. Its 570-hectare surface area gives us a sense of incredible grandeur. The oysters from the Diana Pond are renowned on the island and beyond. Here, fishing and oyster farming blend with the vineyard landscapes. In the middle of the water lies Diana Island. This island is a testament to oyster farming: it is, in fact, man-made, constructed from flat oyster shells.
At this very moment, I don’t really feel like I’m in Corsica.
It’s time for me to finally set out on this rather well-maintained trail that winds through the maquis, at varying elevations, overlooking and running alongside the Diana and Terrenzana ponds. Curious as I am, the trail takes me a while, but you should plan on 3 hours to enjoy this walk, which is accessible to everyone. Once I reach the bottom, at the last parking lot, I decide to stop at the large “Mar’è Stagnu” beach. This vast beach reminds me of ocean beaches where the white sand blends with the blue of the sky and the sea.
On the far right of the landscape, the Tower of Diana rises above the sea. Completed in 1582, it is one of the island’s many Genoese towers that were used to keep watch and warn of Barbary pirate attacks.
That little break and a breath of fresh sea air gave me the energy to keep going. I continued along the trail to get back to my car. It wasn’t even noon yet, but I felt like I’d seen a thousand and one things!
The second stop on my day of exploration: the Pinia Forest and Urbinu Pond
Between Aleria and Ghisonaccia, a sign at a bend points to “Etang d’Urbinu.” I follow the road and, at the end of it—
—find a charming, bucolic spot. The light is beautiful, so I take the opportunity to snap a few photos.
The Urbinu Pond is well known here in Corsica; it’s nicknamed the “little inland sea.” At the time o
, it was part of a large estate that included Diana and Terrenzana. Its first oyster bed was established in 1954, and various fishing areas have marked the history of this freshwater body. Sold in 2007 to the Conservatoire du Littoral, fishing on the pond is now limited and regulated.
Its shellfish are a delight for vacationers, restaurant owners, and nature lovers:
No one has waited for me to describe its beauty. That’s why I’ve chosen to approach it
differently, rather than sitting down for a meal at the—very good—restaurant on stilts.
Armed with my little IGN map, I decide to head to the other end of the pond. To do so, I need to follow the coastal road to Ghisonaccia and head deeper into the beautiful Pinia Forest.
The only maritime pine forest along the Corsican coast, it is a reconstruction of a forest that was once three times its current size. Covering an area of 362 hectares, it is a favorite spot for outdoor enthusiasts and local residents, who come here to enjoy the peace and quiet, the scents of the maquis, and the tranquility of its large beach. It was in this forest that the last Corsican stag was hunted in 1968. In the shade of its tall trees, one can find mainly the great spotted woodpecker, Hermann’s tortoises, and even a few weasels.
The sandy trails can be enjoyed year-round. There are plenty of parking areas, and Pinia Beach, which runs along the forest, offers some very pleasant, peaceful spots.
After this walk through the pine forest, I enjoy arriving at Urbinu Pond. Small pozzines (water holes, peat bogs) dot the ground here and there; the pond seems to stretch out before me. I venture a little further along the trail and finally come upon a completely unexpected landscape.
Where the tree roots seem to drop off, I discover a sheer cliff opening onto a vast expanse of blue water—a deep, intense blue, smooth and calm. I follow a narrow path that leads me down to the water’s edge, where I can gaze at Urbinu Island, right in front of me.
Here I am standing before Corsica’s second-largest lake, covering 782 hectares. I take out my
binoculars, my camera, and something to eat. It’s mealtime for the birds, too: the cormorants and great crested grebes I see are diving and fishing with ease. If there’s one thing to take away from this day, it’s that these ponds are more than just a landscape: they are habitats and breeding grounds, sanctuaries for many species.
I kind of lost track of time at that point. When I got back to my car, it was getting dark, and it was time for me to set out on my third trip of the day.
A late afternoon by Palu Pond
Of all the amazing things about this day, I think this was my favorite surprise. Palu Pond is more
low-key, and you have to pay close attention on the T10 so you don’t miss the turnoff leading to the parking lot. The trail is less picturesque and a bit noisier at first. But very quickly, the birdsong and the views of the water make this walk truly perfect.
Once I reached the top, an unlikely landscape came into view between two arbutus branches: a small boat on the water, clear water, and further away, choppy water. The Etang de Palu was now just a few meters below.
A wooden cabin, then three, then a dock, and finally this setting straight out of Canada!
The water is calm, and the flamingos are busy with their main task: sleeping. Further away, the seagulls dance and sing while the cormorants enjoy the twilight. The 110 hectares of this pond are completely deafening in their tranquility!
To the left of this landscape, the Rinosu mountain range—snow-capped at this time of year—is reflected in the clear water. You can’t help but stop and admire the view. The harmony is perfect.
There is a small trail around the shores of Palu Pond that takes about 45 minutes to walk.
I had never really heard of this pond. I had stopped at the Lido, which borders it, without really paying much attention to this small body of stagnant water. Now that I’m taking a closer look at this environment, I realize how important a space like this is: with freshwater, saltwater, wetlands, and dry areas, I can imagine the diverse mix of habitats hidden all around. As I observe the birds around me, I realize that this habitat plays a role in species conservation.
And then there’s also this boat and these items that indicate fishing activity. In fact, there has been a fisherman here since 1985. His work is regulated; the equipment he uses must adhere to the traditional pond fishing methods of Corsica and Italy. He fishes for eels, mullet, and produces bottarga, the “caviar of the Mediterranean.”
At the end of the day, I realize just how much the Eastern Plain—though far from the usual postcard-perfect scenes
—is home to little scenic treasures and precious conservation areas. And just like every corner of nature, it’s up to us to take the time to appreciate it, understand it, and respect it.
