The sun is just beginning to rise, and your ferry is about to dock in the colorful port of Bastia—unless you’ve chosen another way to get to the city. In any case, you’ve come to the right place: ranked in 2023 among the 100 most livable cities in France (Le Figaro) and France’s leading port for passenger transport, Bastia has everything you need for an authentic stay on the “Island of Beauty.”
And yet! Despite all the treasures this ancient Genoese city has to offer, it remains merely a stopover for many travelers. That’s a good reason to write this feature in the company of a local who knows the city and its heritage inside and out: Nathalie Pouyaud-Simoni, a tour guide who has lived in Bastia since childhood.
Few people can claim to know Bastia as well as Nathalie. For decades, she has been sharing stories about her hometown with travelers from all over—Corsicans, French people, and foreigners alike; a passion she now combines with her love for local cuisine by offering guided tours of Bastia that blend heritage exploration with “nustrale” tastings in her beautiful apartment in the old town.
Nathalie told me about her project, Bastia Intimu, and, of course, about her city, in the interview we did together.
Bastia, a Genoese citadel at the gateway to Cap Corse
Like many other cities in Corsica, Bastia owes its existence to the decisions of the great maritime Republic of Genoa. Due to its ideal geographical location (60 km from the island of Elba and 170 km from Genoa), the port was chosen around 1380 as the site for a citadel—a “bastia.” This, then, is the origin of the name of the capital of Upper Corsica.
It was precisely this port that helped create the very “essence” of the city. Thus, at the end of the Middle Ages, Bastia was chosen by Genoa—which had maintained a presence in Corsica since 1284—to establish a “Genoese presidium.” In other words, “a fortified settlement inhabited by a population tasked with defending the city and ensuring economic activity there.”
This way of life can be found in the far south of Corsica, particularly in the beautiful medieval town of Bonifacio.
Thus, in the 16th century, Bastia would supplant Biguglia—the former capital of Corsica (a town located just south of Bastia) and seat of the Genoese governors)—as the capital. During the same period, the Bishopric of Mariana was transferred to Bastia. “This gave the city new momentum, and from then on, it became the center of all religious, economic, legal, political, and artistic power within its walls. A century later, Corsica would become a ‘Regno’—a kingdom—and Bastia would serve as its capital. “
From that point on, of course, the city experienced growing prosperity, driven by substantial urban development centered on two neighborhoods: the upper town, Terra Nova, and the lower town around the old port, Terra Vecchia. There was a real economic boom here; maritime traffic continued to grow for 200 years, making Bastia a major hub of trade in the Mediterranean.
This continued growth attracted major religious orders, such as the Jesuits, who went on to build magnificent Baroque churches in various neighborhoods of the city. Bastia welcomed artists from Liguria, Flanders, and, of course, the islands… “All this richness and cultural life is immediately apparent to visitors. It’s no wonder Bastia has been designated a City of Art and History!”
A tour of Bastia’s two neighborhoods
Once you arrive in Bastia, “you absolutely must visit the city’s two neighborhoods: Terra Vecchia (the lower town) around the Old Port, and Terra Nova, which is home to the citadel. “
Strolling through Terra Vecchia, starting from Saint Nicolas Square
The tour begins at Place Saint-Nicolas, which opens onto the sea and is lined with opulent 19th-century buildings in the neoclassical style. “It’s sort of the meeting place for Bastia’s families. You can have a coffee there, enjoy an aperitif, or even stop by Maison Mattei, a lovely little shop that’s somewhat reminiscent of an eco-museum.” This 19th-century square offers a panoramic view of the beautiful bourgeois buildings that symbolize the success of the prominent families who have made their homes in Bastia. “It’s linked to the prosperity of its port.”
Next, you can walk back up Rue Napoléon, “stopping along the way to visit the various oratories of religious brotherhoods, notably that of the Immaculate Conception, the former seat of the Anglo-Corsican Kingdom in the 18th century.” That’s right: in the 18th century, the island was an English protectorate from 1794 to 1796, with the famous Pascal Paoli and his closest confidant, Charles-André Pozzo di Borgo, at the center of the political negotiations.
After this stop to soak up the religious and spiritual spirit of Bastia, the walk continues to Bastia’s market square. “It’s the heart and soul of the Terra Vecchia neighborhood.”
Take this opportunity to visit the largest church in Corsica, Saint John the Baptist, built in the early 17th century by the brotherhood of sailors and fishermen from the city of Bastia. The church faces the citadel; the residents of Terra Vecchia are said to have chosen this orientation to taunt the notables of the upper town, who claimed to have the city’s most beautiful sanctuary.
We’ll then stroll through the narrow, colorful alleys of the Terra Vecchia neighborhood to reach the Old Port, the city’s most popular tourist destination. Our steps will inevitably lead us to Carbuccia Street: “Here, too, we’ll find some beautiful mansions that once belonged to prominent figures and powerful merchants of the Old Port.” They’ve been home to famous residents such as… a certain Balzac.
Unless you’d rather stroll along the shore and take the Aldilonda, the “beautiful promenade overlooking the sea,” which blends its raw concrete architecture with the rock that supports the citadel.
Climb to the Top of the Bastia Citadel
So here is the citadel, Terra Nova, spread out before you. Its must-see attractions include “the former Governors’ Palace, which houses the Bastia City Museum; the charming Place du Donjon; the Sainte-Marie Cathedral, built in the Baroque-Classical style; and, of course, the small oratory of Santa Croce.”
The Governors’ Palace and Donjon Square. The palace housed the entire Genoese administration until 1768. It has undergone numerous changes over the years: after serving as the sumptuous residence of the Genoese, the palace became a barracks before being converted into the Bastia City Museum.
The “Lastrone” stone slab had a rather unique purpose. When a shopkeeper was accused of stealing from his customers, he was placed “bare-bottomed” on the slab, where he had to spend the day. In the evening, he was taken back to his shop, and the bailiffs smashed his counter with sledgehammers.
The Cathedral of Sainte-Marie-de-l’Assomption, restored in 1998, features beautiful, richly decorated side chapels: the Farmers’ Guild Chapel, the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, and the Chapel of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. You’ll admire the exceptionally well-preserved paintings and ornamentation. Also worth seeing: the statue of the Virgin Mary in one of the niches of the right-hand bay.
The Oratory of the Holy Cross is not only one of the city’s oldest chapels, designated a Historic Monument , but “above all, it is a building with breathtaking decor. It was completely redecorated in the 18th century in the purest Rococo style, making it the third Rococo church in France.” In fact, when you step inside the Oratory, you’ll no longer be in Corsica but… on Vatican soil.
Sample Bastia’s culinary specialties
So, eating, drinking, and savoring the Bastia way… What does that mean for visitors? “First and foremost, it means taking your time, relaxing in the many small cafés, brasseries, and restaurants tucked away in the city’s various nooks and crannies.” Especially since, in the summer, the city comes alive to the rhythm of live music.
“On Wednesdays during the summer in Bastia, we have ‘market aperitifs.’ It’s a must-visit gathering spot.”
Nathalie Pouyaud-Simoni
Gourmet food is everywhere, especially at the Bastia market on Saturdays and Sundays. People gather there for a quick bite, much like street food: fritters, migliaccioli, and fresh-made treats with fresh cheese… “We like to savor our food and take our time. “
Let’s not forget that Bastia is a working-class city, a melting pot that has been shaped by a multitude of influences. Thanks to its proximity to the sea and the lagoons, the local cuisine boasts fish-based dishes such asAziminu and Anchois à Bastiaise… “Food lovers can order sardines stuffed with brocciu at the small family-run restaurant L’Epica, located above the old harbor.”
Depending on the season—especially in winter—you can enjoy eel, bottarga, and Bastia-style mullet, which is a type of fish cooked with capers from Cap Corse.
“But since Bastia is a city located so close to livestock-raising regions, we have local produce”: dishes made with fresh cheeses, such as migliacci, migliaccioli, and storzapretti. Also during the winter, you can enjoy a specialty found in Castagniccia and Casinca called “u Ghjalaticciu”: it’s a dish made with pork stomach, Swiss chard, onions, and pork. “We eat it as Christmas approaches.”
Another source of culinary wonder, Bastia has recipes specific to its various patron saint festivals and religious celebrations. “We’ll be able to enjoy Panzarotti—small fritters made with chickpea flour—a sweet treat—on St. Joseph’s Day, March 19. “ On All Saints’ Day, there’s an S-shaped cake, the Salviata, which food lovers share among themselves.
And of course, on September 8, the Feast of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, the locals prepare “Tripettes à la Bastiaise.” In fact, every restaurant is expected to serve tripettes on that day. “That’s the Bastia way of life, if you will. A Mediterranean atmosphere, a sense of camaraderie, and perhaps a way to ease your conscience so you can avoid the sin of gluttony.”
When it comes down to it, wouldn’t the real sin be to pass through Bastia… without taking the time to really explore it? Thanks again to Nathalie for her valuable advice.
