Nestled in the heart of the “Island of Beauty” lies one of Corsica’s oldest parishes: Niolu. A land of pastoral traditions and piety, surrounded by the island’s most vertiginous peaks, this mountainous micro-region is said to have been inhabited since ancient Roman times. It is to this area that today’s hike takes you, with the beautiful Muricciolu Bridge and its neighbor, the old watermill, as your destination.
A Genoese bridge that spans the ages in Corsica
Over the centuries, the Niolins shaped the natural landscape to meet their basic needs and to trade with various neighboring regions. The Republic of Genoa, which took control of Corsica in 1284, also continued to develop the region’s infrastructure by constructing structures that facilitated trade, such as the famous Genoese bridges.
By facilitating the transport of the island’s main agricultural products (wheat, olive oil, wine, and chestnuts), these stone structures—which are synonymous with progress—were essential to the island’s economic growth. In the Niolu region, as everywhere else in Corsica, Genoese bridges were built over rivers to allow people to cross them safely.
In the town of Albertacce, near the Aitone Forest, the Muricciolu Bridge is a venerable example of this unique architectural style. Composed of a single humpback arch and a narrow deck, the bridge is believed to have been built between the 16th and 18th centuries.
It spans the Viru River, which originates at the foot of Punta Minuta, at an elevation of 2,556 meters. Though turbulent in the fall after heavy rains, the Viru is a peaceful little river where it’s nice to take a dip on hot summer days.
After Muricciolu, it continues on to Ponte Altu, where it joins the Golo, of which it is one of the main tributaries. The waters of the Viru and the Golo then flow on to their mouth on the east coast, making it the longest river on the island.
A stop along the Transhumance Trail
Located at an elevation of about 850 meters, the bridge is accessible from the D84 at the edge of the village of Albertacce. To reach it, you must take the famous Transhumance Trail, which shepherds used to walk in the past. In fact, the Niolin shepherds used to drive their flocks between the Niolu Valley and the Falasorma Valley, located on the island’s west coast.
This trail, which is very well maintained and marked, is a real little adventure for anyone who would like to follow in the footsteps of these pioneers. Winding through valleys and forests, this trail—which takes hikers from the sea to the mountains—is an invitation to push your limits and meet the indigenous people who call these wild regions home.
A 20-minute walk that’s accessible to everyone… in full sun
For those who aren’t so adventurous or athletic, it’s just a 20-minute walk to Muricciolu. To get there, follow the orange trail markers to the Saint-Antoine wayside shrine, which is almost at the end of the trail. This is a family-friendly outing where children are welcome, as there are no difficulties to worry about—except perhaps the scorching heat along this roughly 2-kilometer route, which offers no shade from the sun.
There are many ponds in the area where you can cool off and enjoy a picnic away from the hustle and bustle of the city. In this idyllic setting, where the sound of the water and the rustling of the wind through the pine trees blend as one, your imagination is transported back to times gone by as you gaze at the old mill nestled on the banks of the Viru.
With its granite walls, this water-powered flour mill is fed by the stream via a stone canal and a wooden footbridge. Presumably built between the 18th and 19th centuries, the mill is believed to have been in operation until the 1950s. The millers who worked there most certainly ground chestnuts into flour, as evidenced by the presence of a beautiful chestnut grove that no longer appears to be maintained.
Above the site, at an altitude of about 1,000 meters, Laricio pines and chestnut trees intermingle to form a single landscape.
Venture from peak to waterfall, beyond the Muricciolu Bridge
To explore more of the area, you might want to venture into the Viru Valley, which lies upstream from the bridge. Under the watchful eye of the Cinque Frati—an easily recognizable peak—the hike can take you all the way to the U Vallone inn, a popular stop for hikers on the GR20. In an alpine setting, you can raise a glass of cold beer before falling asleep in your tent.
Another iconic spot in the Niolu Valley that’s a delight to admire is the Radule Waterfall. To get there from the Muricciolu Bridge, plan on a hike of about ten kilometers toward the Vergio Pass. During the summer, just a few hundred meters from the waterfall, you can grab a bite to eat at the sheepfolds of the same name.
