{"id":8121,"date":"2026-08-31T15:33:18","date_gmt":"2026-08-31T15:33:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/?p=8121"},"modified":"2026-08-31T16:18:45","modified_gmt":"2026-08-31T16:18:45","slug":"corsica-the-megalithic-island-a-quest-for-1000-menhirs-and-dolmens-and-their-petrified-legends-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/corsica-the-megalithic-island-a-quest-for-1000-menhirs-and-dolmens-and-their-petrified-legends-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Solitary and indestructible: the Castello di Serravalle, a sentinel of Central Corsica, stands as a challenge to hikers with a passion for history"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

According to historians, this medieval citadel is said to be one of the best-preserved in Corsica. And the secret of its longevity still puzzles historians: how could a compact, isolated little castle, perched on a barren rock in central Corsica, have escaped the devastation that befell most of the fortresses of its time? For it is still there\u2014the Castello di Serravalle\u2014in the midst of a rugged, sun-baked landscape; still standing, eight centuries after it was built by the Amondaschi lords. <\/p>\n\n

I wanted to see it to understand, to take in its territory from the impregnable promontory of Serravalle. It was a morning well into August\u2014too late, as I realized later under the midday sun. We set out as a family\u2014with my brother-in-law, my daughter, and my nephews\u2014and it took us 25 minutes from Corte to find a place to park on a bend in the D18. Just a moment before, we\u2019d caught a glimpse of the castle atop its hill. <\/p>\n\n

\n\t<\/div>\n\n
\"Serravalle
The Castello di Serravalle is waiting for us up there<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Climb up to the Castello di Serravalle, under the blazing midday sun <\/h2>\n\n

The thermometer already reads over 30\u00b0C as we set out on the dirt and rocky trail. The climb, in full sun, tests our endurance, reddens our faces, and forces us to take breaks in the rare patches of shade provided by gnarled shrubs. Feels like: 40\u00b0C. My daughter seems to be struggling the most. After 20 minutes of grueling walking, we have no choice but to stop for a long while, using some of our water to dampen our caps and cool the backs of our necks. <\/p>\n\n

The final meters of elevation gain fade into a silence that speaks volumes about our condition. Finally, with one last burst of effort, our legs tackle the rocky, steep zigzag path, while the fortifications and the central tower come into view through the sparse scrub. <\/p>\n\n

\"Serravalle
A sign points the way to the castle<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
\"Serravalle
The main tower appears behind the trees<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Entering the tower: a challenge 5 meters above the ground<\/h2>\n\n

At this stage, it\u2019s impossible to make out the castle\u2019s layout\u2014the scene is so chaotic. Only the massive tower serves as a visual reference point: at eight meters tall, it looms over everything at first glance. Just imagine that it might have risen another two stories during the time it was inhabited! It would have taken a great deal of determination to take on such a project. <\/p>\n\n

In fact, as we walk around the breached wall, the site\u2019s \u201cdefensive\u201d design (and that\u2019s an understatement) strikes us as even more surprising. It takes us a good five minutes to spot the tower\u2019s entrance… That\u2019s because it used to open five meters above the ground, directly into the void. It would have been impossible to enter back then without a ladder\u2014one that could be retracted in the event of an assault. It\u2019s hard to imagine climbing up there under a hail of arrows or cobblestones. <\/p>\n\n

But as we marvel at this strange door, still a little dazed by the heat, I realize just how breathtaking the view is, too. To the west, the Niolu Mountains stand out against the horizon. To the north, the Golo Valley. Finally, to the east, Popolasca and Piedigriggio\u2014the two villages this castle has long protected\u2014look tiny. Such ruggedness for such a spectacular landscape… <\/p>\n\n

\"Serravalle
Inside the walls of the Castello di Serravalle<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
\"Serravalle
This tower was even taller in medieval times<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
\n