So today, I\u2019m sharing my conversation with Eric Susini, one of the proud \u201cguardians\u201d of the \u201cFanali di Senetosa\u201d<\/em> \u2014as they say in the Sartenais dialect. With great enthusiasm, he told me about the history of Senetosa, how to get there, and the lodging options, rounding it all off with some tips for travelers who want to add this unique experience to their next trip to Corsica. <\/p>\n\n Take a map of Corsica and head southwest along the majestic coastline of the Sartenais-Valinco micro-region. To get \u201cclose\u201d (so to speak) to the lighthouse, it takes 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours by car from Ajaccio, or 1 hour and 15 minutes coming up from Bonifacio. We\u2019re only about 20 minutes from Sart\u00e8ne, which M\u00e9rim\u00e9e dubbed \u201cthe most Corsican of Corsican towns.\u201d<\/em> <\/p>\n\n But simply pinpointing the \u201cFanali di Senetosa\u201d is not enough. The site as a whole encompasses a preserved stretch of coastline that extends from the Genoese tower at Campomoro (further north, toward Propriano) to the lighthouse\u2014located further down\u2014and continues\u2014for the most experienced hikers\u2014all the way to the port village of Tizzano. <\/p>\n\n Now that you have a general idea of where to go, let me tell you the story of the Campomoro Tower, and then that of the Senetosa Lighthouse. And if you don\u2019t have time for that (too bad), skip ahead to the directions for the hiking trail further down in the article. <\/p>\n\n Let’s talk a little about the historical events that led to the creation of this vast natural and heritage site, which spans 2,300 hectares from Campumoru to Tivedda. <\/p>\n\n The Campomoro Tower is quite simply the most massive tower on the entire \u201cIsle of Beauty.\u201d The Genoese oversaw its construction in the 16th century for defensive purposes; at that time, and for centuries prior, Corsica had frequently suffered devastating raids carried out by the Moors. <\/p>\n\n It was the infamous \u201cSart\u00e8ne raid\u201d of 1583\u2014during which 2,000 Arab pirates attacked the town to kidnap hundreds of villagers\u2014that prompted the urgent construction of this tower. <\/p>\n\n Standing 15 meters tall with its star-shaped walls, it faces the Mediterranean and now welcomes visitors to a permanent (paid) exhibition on the Genoese towers of Corsica. <\/p>\n\n The Campomoro Tower is open only from April through October; you can explore it from the outside on a leisurely walk (about a 1-hour stroll if you take your time). <\/p>\n\n It all began with a sensational shipwreck, Eric Susini explains to me: \u201cthe sinking of the Tasmania, a British steamship returning from India with a cargo of exceptional value (ivory, opium, hides, spices\u2026) and more than 300 passengers and crew members on board.\u201d<\/em> <\/p>\n\n In the middle of the night in April 1887, just as the ship had passed the Madonetta Lighthouse off the coast of Bonifacio, it crashed into the breakers not far from Roccapina (whose beach and stone lion are now famous tourist attractions). Some of the passengers and crew members died, while the survivors were rescued on the coast the next day. <\/p>\n\n The cargo\u2014with the exception of the precious stones\u2014was thus lost along with the shipwreck. The insurance company at the time determined that the blame for this tragedy lay with the lack of coastal navigation aids\u2026 for which the French Ministry of the Navy was held responsible. <\/p>\n\n And so, in 1894, the construction of the Senetosa Lighthouse was officially approved. This semaphore station complemented the lesser-known one at Cap Feno\u2014which was already guiding ships heading south. It also stood alongside an ancient Genoese tower, the Senetosa Tower, which, ironically, had been used to watch the sea for protection against Barbary pirate raids a few centuries earlier\u2026 <\/p>\n\n The Senetosa Lighthouse is being built according to a design unique in France: it has two towers to accommodate the area\u2019s geographical characteristics, since ships\u2019 courses can change suddenly due to currents. Although the construction cost exceeded the norm\u2014largely due to technical and logistical challenges\u2014the goal was to avoid a repeat of the disaster at the R\u00e9cif des Moines. <\/p>\n\n During the first sixty years, \u201cthe first lighthouse keepers lived at the Senetosa Lighthouse with their families.\u201d<\/em> Life here is far from everything, in the lighthouse that prides itself on being \u201cthe most isolated in Southern Corsica.\u201d<\/em> Even the boat docks cannot withstand the storms that batter Senetosa. <\/p>\n\n A hermit\u2019s life was finally abandoned\u2014or nearly so\u2014with the implementation in 1956 of a new work system (involving a rotation of several keepers). It wasn\u2019t until 1988 that the lighthouse was automated, gradually marking the end of its traditional occupation. <\/p>\n\n \u201cPrivate companies then tried to \u2018get their hands on\u2019 the lighthouse, but the site\u2019s managers (the Elisa association), with the support of the Conservatoire du Littoral, managed to keep it in public hands<\/em>,\u201d<\/em>recalls Eric Susini. The restoration of the Senetosa lighthouse, \u201ccarried out with European funding<\/em>, \u201d<\/em> made it possible to convert it into a shelter in 2016. <\/p>\n\n If you\u2019ve made it this far, it\u2019s because the prospect of exploring the Campomoro Tower and\u2014perhaps\u2014spending the night in the Senetosa Lighthouse has you excited\u2026 So let\u2019s talk a little about the hike that awaits you; keep in mind that there are several coastal routes to choose from, depending on how long you\u2019d like to hike.<\/p>\n\n The elevation gain is very slight overall, so this coastal trail is accessible to everyone. You\u2019ll stroll along a flat, sandy path dotted with secluded coves, fragrant scrubland, and sun-drenched vistas. On windy days, though, be careful: the wind blows strongly in this region. <\/p>\n\n The trail starts (to the north) in Campomoro and extends to the Hermitage of the Trinity in Bonifacio (in the far south). \u201cBe careful,\u201d says Eric Susini, \u201cbecause there are \u2018areas that the Coastal Conservation Agency has not yet been able to take over, or that we are currently unable to maintain adequately.\u2019\u201d<\/em> <\/p>\n\n As for the Tizzano-Senetosa trail, the refuge caretaker says it\u2019s \u201chard to say exactly how long it takes to complete this route. \u201cWe estimate 3 or even 4 hours, but if you hike at a brisk pace, you can even do it in just over an hour.\u201d<\/em> <\/p>\n\n The hike from Campomoro to Senetosa takes 4 to 6 hours, depending on your pace. Everything is clearly explained on the Senetosa Lighthouse website<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n For the more adventurous who would like to hike the entire trail, from Campomoro to Tizzano (and back), \u201cplan on a full day of hiking, covering about 20 km.\u201d<\/em> <\/p>\n\n As you can see, there are two starting points for the hike: either in the north, from Campomoro, or in the south, from Tizzano. <\/p>\n\n I\u2019d actually recommend doing the Tizzano\u2013Senetosa hike first, because the parking restrictions on the Campomoro side are much stricter; you can\u2019t park for more than 4 hours in the village parking lot (which charges a fee), because after that, you\u2019re guaranteed to get a ticket. Needless to say, if you\u2019re planning a hike longer than 4 hours, this is a problem (go figure). <\/p>\n\n In short, if you want to visit the tower and take a short walk around the area (via the path known as \u201cBassa Torra\u201d), no problem; just try to arrive early during peak season\u2014parking spots are in high demand. If you\u2019re planning to spend the night at the lighthouse, it\u2019s best to start from Tizzano (at the far end of the hamlet, at the designated parking area). <\/p>\n\n Finally, if you’d rather set sail, you can reach the Senetosa Lighthouse by boat. A wonderful coastal cruise awaits. <\/p>\n\n Contrary to what some articles might lead you to believe, the Senetosa Lighthouse\u2014often described as \u201cunique lodging\u201d\u2014is neither a hotel nor a bed-and-breakfast. It is a mountain hut, just like the huts along the GR20\u2026 with a few differences. <\/p>\n\n \u201cPeople can stay for a maximum of two nights<\/em>,\u201d<\/em> explains Eric Susini. Reservations are primarily made online, through the official website<\/a>, to ensure more reliable management of accommodations (so be sure to book your stay in advance). <\/p>\n\n \u201cWe have 4 double rooms in the lighthouse (\u20ac20 per person), 2 dormitories with 8 beds each (\u20ac15 per person) in the dining hall, and a camping area that can accommodate up to 40 people and costs \u20ac8 per night.\u201d<\/em> You\u2019ll therefore need to pay for your overnight stay, the on-site shower, breakfast, sheet rental, tent rental\u2026 And don\u2019t forget to bring your own food, since \u201cevery guest must bring their own dinner. The policy is to be accessible to everyone, but without requiring guests to purchase a meal.\u201d <\/em> <\/p>\n\n Important note: The Senetosa shelter opens around 6:00 p.m. and closes the next morning around 9:30 a.m. (for lodging). \u201cBreakfast is served from 6:30 a.m. until 9:00 a.m. at the latest.\u201d<\/em> So there\u2019s no need to stop by between 9:30 a.m. and 6:00 p.m., except to stock up on drinks and get information. <\/p>\n\n During the off-season, between November and February, only groups of at least 10 people are accepted\u2014and only with a prior reservation. This is important if you plan to explore Southern Corsica in the middle of winter. <\/p>\n\n When asked what advice he might give to hikers, my interviewee recalled the occasional cases of heatstroke and\/or dehydration that have been reported at the lighthouse. \u201cIt\u2019s basic, but during the summer, bring water\u2014at least 2 liters per person.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n \u201cIf possible, try to leave later in the day\u2014around 4:30 or 5:00 p.m.\u2014even if it means arriving at 8:00 or 8:30 p.m. This helps you avoid heatstroke and extreme fatigue, especially with the current heat.\u201d<\/em> And you\u2019ll still be able to check in in the evening, so you might as well avoid exposing yourself to the heat unnecessarily. <\/p>\n\n It would be a shame to ruin such an exceptional experience because of a sudden rush of heat\u2026<\/p>\n\n For more information: the Senetosa Lighthouse\u2019s Facebook<\/a> and Instagram<\/a> pages, and the Campumoru Tower\u2019s Facebook<\/a> page.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"The Wild and Unusual Trail in Southern Corsica\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":6124,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"advanced_seo_description":"","jetpack_seo_html_title":"","jetpack_seo_noindex":false,"jetpack_seo_schema_type":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"csco_singular_sidebar":"","csco_page_header_type":"","csco_page_load_nextpost":"","csco_post_video_location":[],"csco_post_video_url":"","csco_post_video_bg_start_time":0,"csco_post_video_bg_end_time":0,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":true},"categories":[133,130],"tags":[155,194],"class_list":["post-6120","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-beautiful-stones","category-sea-mountains-scrubland","tag-far-south","tag-frying-pan","cs-entry","cs-video-wrap"],"acf":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.lettera.corsica\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/crique-phare-senetosa-corsedusud-Sebastien-Hovaguimian-dreamstime-scaled.jpg?fit=2560%2C1711&ssl=1","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6120","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6120"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6120\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6127,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6120\/revisions\/6127"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6124"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6120"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6120"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6120"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}Where is the Senetosa Lighthouse located?<\/h2>\n\n
![\"The](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.lettera.corsica\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/refuge-phare-senetosa-corse-Derwuth-dreamstime.jpg?resize=1024%2C652\")
What is the history of the lighthouse and the natural area surrounding it?<\/h2>\n\n
The History of the Genoese Tower in Campomoro<\/h3>\n\n
![\"Campomoro](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.lettera.corsica\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/tour-genoise-campomoro-The-World-Traveller-dreamstime.jpg?resize=1024%2C683\")
The History of the Senetosa Lighthouse<\/h3>\n\n
The hike from Campomoro to Senetosa (via Tizzano).<\/h2>\n\n
![\"Senetosa](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.lettera.corsica\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/sentier-randonnee-campomoro-senetosa-corsedusud-mathieupozzodiborgo.jpg?resize=1024%2C574\")
![\"Tizzano](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.lettera.corsica\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/plage-chemin-randonnee-tizzano-senetosa-mathieupozzodiborgo.jpg?resize=1024%2C574\")
![\"Senetosa](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.lettera.corsica\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/crique-randonnee-senetosa-corsedusud-mathieupozzodiborgo.jpg?resize=1024%2C573\")
How do you get to the Senetosa Lighthouse? <\/h2>\n\n
Not a hotel or a bed-and-breakfast, but a mountain lodge (for up to 2 nights)<\/h2>\n\n
A few tips before you get started<\/h2>\n\n