{"id":5508,"date":"2026-07-11T18:27:00","date_gmt":"2026-07-11T18:27:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/tears-of-the-mountain-a-4-day-3-night-adventure-through-the-corsican-lake-chain\/"},"modified":"2026-08-21T13:36:41","modified_gmt":"2026-08-21T13:36:41","slug":"tears-of-the-mountain-a-4-day-3-night-adventure-through-the-corsican-lake-chain","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/tears-of-the-mountain-a-4-day-3-night-adventure-through-the-corsican-lake-chain\/","title":{"rendered":"“Tears of the Mountain”: A 4-day, 3-night adventure through the Corsican Lake Chain"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Since its formation more than 4 billion years ago, our planet has been subject to climate fluctuations, alternating between warm and cold geological periods. Twenty thousand years ago, during the last ice age\u2014known as the W\u00fcrm\u2014the Corsican mountains were covered by vast glaciers that extended deep into the valleys. It was a landscape of extreme polar conditions, a world apart from the climate we experience today. <\/p>\n\n

After this long period of cold and dry weather, the climate gradually warmed, leading to the disappearance of the glaciers. As they retreated, they left behind glacial valleys, as well as the constellation of lakes that dot our mountains. These natural gems are now a source of fascination for hikers seeking to reconnect with nature. <\/p>\n\n

As if it were a pilgrimage, for the past ten years or so I\u2019ve instinctively made my way to the center of the island to recharge my batteries in the lake region. In the summer of 2021, as is my custom, I once again spent a few blissful days at the Manganu refuge (on the GR20), my go-to spot in this quest for tranquility as I set out to discover the \u201ctears of the mountain.\u201d <\/p>\n\n

\n\t<\/div>\n\n

Day 1: Lake Creno and the Rinella Lakes<\/h2>\n\n

The first day of a mountain trip is never the one devoted to the main activity\u2014that is, hiking. It must always be preceded by a period of preparation involving gear and the itinerary. Because, even though this isn\u2019t my first time, a trip to the peaks must be well-planned so as to leave no room for uncertainty\u2014or at least not too much room. <\/p>\n\n

Once I\u2019ve marked the various stages on my watch and stowed my backpack in the car, I head out to pick up my climbing partner, Jean. We head to the town of Soccia and the parking lot overlooking the village, at an elevation of 1,000 meters. Our hike begins at this parking lot. <\/p>\n\n

\"Hike
The majestic forest surrounds me as I hike toward Lake Creno.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
\"Lake
Lake Creno is every bit as beautiful as the Swiss or Canadian landscapes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

We set off, our bags packed, along a wide, marked trail that will lead us to Lake Creno (\u201cLavu a Crena\u201d). This first stop offers a strikingly beautiful scene, though I\u2019ve lost count of how many spuntinu I\u2019ve devoured on the lush green lawns lining the shore. The postcard-perfect view of a Canadian lake captures my imagination every time. It must be said that, with the towering pine trees surrounding it, Creno is every bit as stunning as any North American landscape. <\/p>\n\n

We hit the trail again for the second part of the morning, which takes us through a much rockier and drier valley. The heat is stifling, even though we\u2019re approaching an altitude of 1,500 meters. An hour and thirty minutes later, we arrive in Manganu, our base camp, from which we\u2019ll set out on this hub-and-spoke hike. <\/p>\n\n

I see the familiar faces of the caretakers, Jean-Andr\u00e9 and Antoine, with whom I\u2019ve grown close over time. Sitting around a table with a beer, we chat about the past year while the refuge\u2019s terrace offers an unobstructed view of the Camputile Plateau. <\/p>\n\n

The day isn\u2019t over yet, and we\u2019re heading back toward Bocca alle Porte along the GR20. Some moments in our lives seem to be suspended in time. What can I say about that unforgettable sunset from the Cr\u00eate de Rinella over the lakes of the same name? Fabulous. <\/p>\n\n

\"Lake
The twilight glows reflect off the lakes of Rinella, deep in the Corsican mountains.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Day 2: Lake Nino, Pozzine, and horses roaming free<\/h2>\n\n

We wake up around 7 a.m. after our first night adjusting to our new, spartan accommodations. As I do every year, I rented a tent from the Corsica Regional Nature Park website. That means one less thing to carry. <\/p>\n\n

We\u2019ve planned a hike to Lake Nino for this second day. The round-trip hike takes only 3 hours, which will give us time to enjoy the scenery and take photos. It\u2019s an ode to taking things slow, where strolling is the order of the day. <\/p>\n\n

\"Corsican
You don’t just run into hikers heading toward the lakes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

After crossing the Acqua Ciarnente Pass, we enter the Camputile Plateau, where cows graze peacefully. The landscape is that of a typical alpine pasture shaped by pastoral activity. In fact, very few trees can be seen here, while there is a high density of sheepfolds\u2014both abandoned and still in use. In the shadow of Punta Artica, which stands proudly like a pyramid, we make our way toward the sheepfolds of Vaccaghja. <\/p>\n\n

The trail winds its way up a gentle incline to the lake. Nino is a lush, green oasis where it\u2019s recommended to take off your shoes because the grass is so delicate. As we enjoy our lunch, we watch the free-roaming horses that come up to hikers to beg for a piece of bread. It\u2019s a delight for the children, who play with these wild horses. <\/p>\n\n

\"Lake
At the end of the hiking trail, the untamed landscape of Lake Nino comes into view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

After a nice nap on this natural mattress, we head back to our sanctuary. We arrive around 4:00 p.m., and Jean packs up his things and leaves for the Lake Creno parking lot because he can\u2019t stay with me any longer. <\/p>\n\n

As for me, I’m heading back the way I came toward Vaccaghja, where I hope to photograph the sunset over the Camputile Plateau.<\/p>\n\n

Day 3: Lakes Melo and Capitello<\/h2>\n\n

It\u2019s 6 a.m. on this third day; it\u2019s time to set out. My footsteps follow the famous GR20 trail. Just as I did on the first day, I\u2019m heading toward Bocca alle Porte, formerly the highest point on the GR, which rises to an altitude of approximately 2,230 meters. <\/p>\n\n

The climb is steady and the effort sustained, with the trail alternating between rocks and pozzi. The final ascent to the pass, while not presenting any major obstacles, is tiring. Here, everything is rock. Granite appears in all its forms: as slender peaks, boulders, pebbles, or even as dust. <\/p>\n\n

\"Lake
Lake Melo comes into view below as the trail climbs toward the Capitello.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
\"Capitello
High above Corte, Lake Capitello captivates us with its deep, icy blue waters.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

The difficulty is matched only by the purity of the scene that unfolds when you finally cross the pass. Perched in the Rotondu massif and surrounded by sharp peaks, my gaze wanders down into the Restonica Valley, where the lakes of Melu and Capitellu lie nestled below. It\u2019s a very photogenic scene, but I chose not to capture it because it\u2019s already been shared so widely on social media. <\/p>\n\n

Throughout the descent toward these mountain gems, I\u2019m accompanied by yellow-billed choughs circling overhead. I stop for a bite to eat in Melu, where I take a well-deserved break. It\u2019s a chance to remind myself that we owe respect to this natural world, which is so powerful and yet so fragile at the same time. <\/p>\n\n

I made my way back to Manganu along the same route, where a good night\u2019s sleep awaited me. The 10 kilometers, combined with the 1,150-meter elevation gain, had worn me out. <\/p>\n\n

Day 4: Lake Goria and the End of the Adventure<\/h2>\n\n

The last day of this life disconnected from civilization. I wake up early because I absolutely have to be at Lake Goria for sunrise. It\u2019s a spectacular sight, with the golden light of early morning enveloping the lake\u2019s dramatic cirque. As I stand there alone, I break the silence by pulling a granola bar out of my backpack. <\/p>\n\n

Back at the lodge, I pack my things and chat with the caretakers one last time this season. It occurs to me that the mountain atmosphere has a uniqueness that can only be found when you experience the mountains firsthand. It may seem obvious, but you have to be out there and live it to understand what that means. <\/p>\n\n

\"peaks
The jagged peaks of the Restonica.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

After days of hiking that sometimes test one\u2019s resolve and relentlessly wear down the muscles, the hiker finds a little comfort among fellow travelers. We share a beer, memories, and plans for the route we\u2019ll take the next day. We form fleeting friendships, just long enough to cross a mountain pass or admire a lake. <\/p>\n\n

Since the start of this little adventure, I\u2019ve constantly been meeting and connecting with adventurers from all walks of life. Everyone is eager to share their experiences in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The great outdoors doesn\u2019t just allow us to reconnect with nature; through physical exertion, it helps us rediscover ourselves and understand others. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"A Story of Rejuvenation at the Island’s Summit\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":5511,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"advanced_seo_description":"","jetpack_seo_html_title":"","jetpack_seo_noindex":false,"jetpack_seo_schema_type":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"csco_singular_sidebar":"","csco_page_header_type":"","csco_page_load_nextpost":"","csco_post_video_location":[],"csco_post_video_url":"","csco_post_video_bg_start_time":0,"csco_post_video_bg_end_time":0,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":true},"categories":[1,130],"tags":[181],"class_list":["post-5508","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-non-classe","category-sea-mountains-scrubland","tag-central-corsica","cs-entry","cs-video-wrap"],"acf":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.lettera.corsica\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/6-Lac-de-Nino-Corse-Sebastien-Leroy-scaled.jpg?fit=2560%2C1707&ssl=1","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5508","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5508"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5508\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5520,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5508\/revisions\/5520"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/5511"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5508"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5508"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lettera.corsica\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5508"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}